the best way to find out exactly how much liquid you need is to take a bum roll of crap film you'll never use (way expired drugstore c-41 is perfect), spool it onto a reel, put it in the tank on the spindle, but don't push it down to the bottom, let it sit in the "top roll" position...as if it were the fifth of 5 reels and put the tank on its side. Add something like 400-500ml of water and hold the tank (with the lid on) parallel to the floor and rotate it (or put it on the roller) if you pull out the film and the whole roll is wet, it's enough. Add on 50ml just to cover your bottom, and there's your figure.
For what it's worth, my jobo drum uses 270ml of chemicals for the 2x 35mm rolls drum. I would extrapolate that for a paterson 5 reeler (I've got one too), you'll probably need about 550ml.
I agree with that, probably a little more for the Paterson because of that wider top lip
PKM speaks the truth once again. I rarely use my jobo for color, would rather send it to crc or duggal. makes life easy for b/w though.
I have done the opposite. I do all my black & white by inversion in my Paterson tanks and do all my color with the Jobo. I have been rather enjoying being able to do my own color film developing without spending a lot of money for lab fees. Getting the CPE2+ has completely revived my use of color. I am not trying to make money with it, I am just having fun! It is not a monstrous piece of equipment but it sure works nice. It is small, light and easy to handle. It reminds me a lot of the little Ford 8N. The perfect little companion for the hobbyist.
I do everything in my Jobo (B&W, C41, E6, B&W prints, RA4 prints). Sure there are differences due to continuous agitation but they're pretty minor and I doubt there are many people who could tell the difference between an inversion developed and rotary developed negative even side by side. It's only in extreme cases (multi-hour stand processing) where it becomes important.
In my case of course, cost is a big driver. It costs me about $1/roll for C41 and $4/roll for E6 in chemistry to run my Jobo vs $10 to $15 at the lab. My Jobo pays for its whole purchase price ($600) every year on that basis of comparison. And when I develop B&W, I use less than half as much Xtol (100mL vs 250mL to cover a 120 roll at 1+1) and I can develop 6 rolls at a time instead of maybe 2 - the time savings are immense. And arguably, time is your biggest cost; $5 for a roll of film is irrelevant if you have to spend a whole hour processing it!
Stone: since you have a rotary base already, I suggest you get a cheap 2553 and 3 of 2502 spirals and use them on your roller. It won't leak, and you can do 6 at once! If you end up buying a Jobo for the temp control, you'll have an extra tank to use with it.
Ideally you want a tank that doesn't have tapered sides and maintains a uniform diameter along its length, so that it will not be crooked when laid on its side. Any set of rollers will do, really, though a system that does both forward and reverse agitation is best, I think. I know my jobo does something like a revolution and a half in one direction, and then reverses it. I can imagine stainless steel reels and tanks working very well, due to their ease of acquisition and their straight profiles. some tape around the lip of the lid to reduce any possibility of leaking and you're off to the races.
I also have the Jobo 1509 roller set. No motor so everything is done by hand. Forward and reverse rotation is no problem! I use my Jobo tanks but the rollers can be set to different configurations so the Paterson or Arista Premium tanks work as well.
A Paterson System 4 tank with a couple of heavy duty rubber bands works fine on my Beseler base.
“Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”
Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2