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  1. #11
    q_x
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    Yups, Focomat would be great asset, so would a Leica. Also there are some suitcase-sized Dursts... Leitz gear is still not quite abundant where I live, it's easy to find information, but hard to find a given product - there's actually zero Leitz enlargers on our biggest auction site in this moment, and at least one full UPA suitcase set, fully working and in decent condition for under 20 USD. That's the reality.

    I'd be happy to accept a gift or two, but having to spent a small fortune, I'd rather waste some film and paper and actually learn something or do something at least semi-decent or good enough. Light leaks are manageable, it just takes some time and thinking to plug all holes in the head without restricting ventilation, and I'm wondering how other people fixed this issue.

    For now, my analog toolset consists of low-end lenses in K mount (28, 35-80, 50, 70-200) with Ricoh XR-1s, Cokin filters, lightweight tripod and a flash, and alternatively of Zorki C with two Industar lenses (22 and 61 L/D). I'll be buying something soon (ME Super or P30 body, Zorki 4 if there will be enough funds left for that), cause I'm selling trusty, but heavy Pentax Z-1 body, together with some other gear, that was only gathering dust recently.

    Films and developers differ, I haven't found my favorite yet, but I'm trying to stay in 50-125 ISO range. What I do is mostly landscape photography, and I'm doing almost exclusively b&w photos, at least as long, as film goes. Digital stuff is a different animal. This year I've done some serious shooting with Polypan F, which is said to be Ilford Pan F without anti-reflective layer, but I doubt this kind of animal to be anybody's favorite. I'm not a typical landscape photographer, but I think we've already tackled this subject some time ago.
    Use the Force, Luke!

  2. #12
    Mustafa Umut Sarac's Avatar
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    I think its better to engineer these leaks and continue with what you have. Zenit people are amazing and they build tank like products.
    I bought an Zenit ET with Helios 58mm , 27 years ago new and I put in to newly bought Bosch refrigirator ice box and it was minus 25.
    Camera worked like a charm and when I was university dorm , I changed it with German made military boots They were leaking also like your zenit. I think We found good common point. Heavy cameras are feels like an engineering product not like plastic toys , you understand when you lose it. My advise , if your z1 is working , let it stay with you. Dont invest a zorki but may be a kiev contax copy. I used two feds and they worked only couple of months. Good to know you are an landscape photographer and tri x rules in that business. May be better developers and films costs less but improves more. Do you know pyro developers , if you dont drink , touch , spill on yourself or around , its a toxic but very good may be the best developer. You can mix it but follow , read all the instructions and never breathe the pyrogallol powder.

    Polish, Flemish are my favourite languages but I dont have energy to learn them. Valessa was a great , symphatic guy.

  3. #13
    q_x
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    LOL I guess it's not only the leaking we have in common, also Zenit and Helios experience

    Yups, this enlarger is built like a tank, not only from outside. I've just finished cleaning it throughly. Die-cast, crude and heavy, much like some Opemus enlargers I've seen, minus all the rounded edges. Russia is unlike any ordinary, civilized place, things there either are solid or borked.

    It looks like I can mount some M39 lenses to the enlarger if I50U won't be up to the task. Not every one of them, cause there's very little space there (m42 thread won't fit the space designed for the lens, so it's less than 3mm of space), but still it leaves me with options like Nikon or Rodenstock lenses made for enlargers. I've visually checked image quality of the lens I have, and I guess it'll be sufficient to at least seriously try to work with this tool. The image is sharp and contrasty, the lens and timer are easy to use, the condenser seems to be working fine, and the enlarger itself is pretty stable thanks to its weight. All I need to start with.

    We have three Zenit bodies here (E, 12XP and 3M). One I borrowed, one belongs to my GF and one I keep for sentimental reasons only. I can't stand their tiny viewfinders, no-go for a tool one has to work with. Plain, ground glass, 20x30mm size at best. Especially if you can replace it with any other semi-decent camera, there's just no coming back. But all three are in working condition. The curtain shutter in FSU 35mm cameras won't break easily BTW, it's derived from pre-war Leicas - doesn't matter if it's FED, Zorki or Zenit, it originates from Leica II. It gets used, either ribbons, curtains or glue will finally give up, but it's a matter of proper maintenance to prevent it from happening.

    Also Helios originates from pre-war Germany - Zeiss called it Biotar back then. 44m is an excellent design, Russian engineers were perfecting it for over 60 years, and you just have to love the swirly bokeh it gives Actually a different Helios (103) is regarded as one of the best lenses for Kiev/Contax rangefinders. I've had Kiev 4AM with this lens, and I must say the body was inferior. Heavy like a brick, I was unable to nail framing in vertical direction, and it suffered from uneven film transport. On the contrary, the lens was pure magic, Ive done my best photos with it. I've sold it long time ago. Best, apparently, is not good enough. I'd give all but one film cameras, filters and lenses I have for an old Contax II with two lenses and two filters (Helios mentioned above and any decent backup lens plus polarizer and pale yellow-green filter), but I'm afraid the world just won't work this way.

    I've been working with Z-1 for a short while, disliked the experience, and it was left unused ever since. I won't regret selling it, really. It's a pity to see such a decent camera gathering dust in a dark corner just because me being not flexible enough. But I am what I am, I can't work with it the way I like. So I don't. It should capture light, enable someone to make brilliant photos. Cheap Ricoh bodies in K mount have better viewfinders (bigger coverage and magnification) and some of them will never complain about depleted batteries. And this is more or less what I value, getting the job done without any distraction. I guess I'm Zorki/Leica type of guy, a lost case anyway.

    I'll keep tri x and pyro in mind and try it as soon as I'll run out of Polypan, thanks a bunch for the tip I've never worked with pyro developers, and I recall I've done only like one or two rolls of any b&W kodak film, apart from Accademy, years ago. I was working more with Foma and Ilford films. I don't mind toxicity, pyrogallol is noting compared to dichromate anyways.

    Beware, Polish is one of hardest languages to master. A lifetime task, even for some native speakers
    Use the Force, Luke!

  4. #14
    Mustafa Umut Sarac's Avatar
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    I am seriously thinking to spend few years at poland , hungary , czech republic and belgium to learn all the languages there. I am thinking to join the courses. My one of the biggest ambition is constructed languages and inspiration is Tin tin s syldavian. Its a mixture above all plus Turkish.
    I have lot to say but people starts to run after me with forks and torches.

    I used two IIIC and two IIIF original Leica for years and I know what you mean with your selection.

    I have an Polish friend here and he showed me a site where polish people were selling kilometers long old movie films for few euros.

    Do you have a film seller who stocks regular 8mm color bw movie fresh film for me ?

    I agree , these japanese cameras are works like an tank whatever their prices and K mount lenses are great.

  5. #15
    q_x
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    I might have jeopardized myself by posting here, search engines throw this thread out in the very top.

    I've found more photos of a similar unit, so that maybe someone sees it and chimes in with any advice: http://www.ussrphoto.com/wiki/defaul...table+Enlarger - the enlarger looks the same, though the red lamp is different. So maybe the actual -6E part isn't that important in the model name.

    The manual I've found for UPA 5 is here:
    http://www.submin.com/general/manual...nith_upa5m.htm
    It seems to provide some substantial information, like the fact, that last stroke to adjust focus should be made upwards, or the fact, that autofocus should be adjustable, even though the design of this part is completely different in 6E model.

    After quick search I've found only one fresh 8mm film readily available: FOMA B&W reversal. You may have more luck in Czech Republic or Germany, I think.
    Last edited by q_x; 11-15-2013 at 04:05 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Use the Force, Luke!

  6. #16
    AgX
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    Quote Originally Posted by AgX View Post
    That UPA-5 enlarger is one of those simple (or ingenious) out-of-box enlargers, not a autofocus one as the OP is inquiring on.
    I have to beg your pardon Umut!


    It IS autofocus.
    I got something myself of this kind! Type 720. Bought in the 90's on one local so-called Poles-markets. Had looked at it at home and stored it. Never opened it since then. Still fine. I totally forgot about that autofocus feature...

    Mine got a wedge in a slit alongside the front of the collumn, actuating a lever connected with the focusing stage.
    Last edited by AgX; 11-15-2013 at 03:37 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #17
    q_x
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    Yups, same here, and it seems to be working nearly 100% fine. I have to adjust the focus only when changing the magnification drastically, for minor scale adjustments it's all OK.
    Use the Force, Luke!

  8. #18
    AgX
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    My set has no facility to set the column ontop of that suitcase. The casing is completely covered with thin foam rubber. There is no special contouring. The deeper part of the suitcase has got two metal covered slits which accept the ends of the collumn and thus fix the whole enlarger. On top of that all is the baseboard. Loosely laid upon. It will be arrested by the foam covering in the top of the case when closing it.

    The cast-iron lower part of the collumn I placed under the collumn. Its feet keep it somewhat to the collumn, but still it is not actually fixed.
    Last edited by AgX; 11-15-2013 at 07:14 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  9. #19
    q_x
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    Do you have 45 deg. mirror in your set, AgX? Else it's more or less usable only up to a4 range, not much fun.

    Problem is I have a red lamp and a timer/switch that I have to fit in the suitcase in a way, that will not cause any problems. Also, I'm leaving a ground glass in the filter compartment, not sure if it's safe. The foam will deteriorate, be warned.
    All the parts look like here:
    http://www.photohistory.ru/Pictures/Enl-UPA-609-big.jpg
    But... Where to squeeze the timer in this arrangement? It barely fits where one thinks it should go (underneath the lens), and there is very little place left for things not shown in this photo, like the negative carrier with frames or 6m of electric cords with three plugs in total. I have no baseboard or coping frame (ow, if this is Vergrößerungsrahmen in English), I'll have to take care for this tool as well.
    Use the Force, Luke!

  10. #20
    AgX
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    All foam will deteriorate... A constant issue for all of us hoarding stuff. Especially annoying if the foam is custom contoured.

    No I got no mirror, nor is their any reference in the russian manual. The collumn is telescopic and yields an enlargement factor of 10 or 20. Both factors are given in the manual, on the enlarger head on a photo in the manual it says 1-10-20, mine is plain. I'm puzzled by this and shall check this when I got time.
    My kit is from 1992. Made by the Kirov plant from 1989 onwards.

    My kit only consits of enlarger and baseboard. I never saw your two-suitcase kit before. Maybe your timer belongs into the suitcase with those trays.
    Last edited by AgX; 11-15-2013 at 07:34 AM. Click to view previous post history.

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