JOBO Processor care package... Now what?
So, a very talented and pretty famous photographer and author and member here on APUG generously gifted me for a VERY small price, this baby....
So now what?
So many questions...
1. Let's start with the obvious, is there a certain water level that I'm expected to have with this thing? I don't see any markings that indicate how high it should be.
2. The smaller tank doesn't seem to fit on the rollers that are below inside of the tank here, does this mean that it's safe to float on the water without the rollers or will that put too much strain on the motor?
3. There are many size tanks and reels, and a little confused, however I do understand that this is certainly enough tank real combo to do most everything except for 4x5. Though as I understand it the larger tank can take a 4 x 5 real but I'm not sure which one/ones? Is it the 2509? And why is there an N at the end of some and not others, does they mean something?
4. There is also a 4x5 "expert" drum that everyone tells me is the one that I'm supposed to have because it's better somehow? But the prices seem really really high for that, so I'm unsure about that or if it's the right thing at all, or if the 2509 reals are sufficient, I do plan to develop some of the infrared film that tends to be very thin.
5. How the heck do you load these things? The Paterson reels that I have are so simple, they aren't actually Patterson there's some other sub company called Rokunar, they have a nice tongue that comes out to help guide the film, as well as the autoloading ball bearings. The Patterson reels don't seem to even have ball bearings, and I'm not sure how I'm supposed to feed the film without touching it all the time getting fingerprints all over it. I have two tanks apparently a Unintank 1500 seriee and a multitank 2500 series.
6. There's indicators on the outside of the tanks telling me that certain tanks take certain milliliters of developer, but sometimes there are two dev amounts listed, but it's unclear what the numbers correspond to when there are two numbers available. Like it lists when you can use one or two 120 rolls, also I read somewhere that you can use to 120 rolls in the same real, but I'm not sure if I understand how you're supposed to load them in it doesn't really make any sense.
7. There is some kind of 4x5 loading piece for the reels as well, but I'm really sure what that's about either, one did not come with the kit, what I mean is that it looks that way online but I don't know what it is exactly.
8. There's a one button and a two button, and that's really all there are besides the temperature indicator, but I'm not really sure what the one button or the two button really does. It has a European power supply so I have to go out to RadioShack and get a transistor or whatever you call it to convert it to regular American power, so I haven't been able to actually test it out yet at all.
I'm sure as soon as possible to this I'm going to have more questions that come to mind.
Either way now that I actually see one in person, I understand what it really is, I was very resistant to get a processor because of the price, obviously thankfully the price for this one was not too high at all and I really got a bargain, however now that it's in my hands I completely understand the value of it, I also understand that is not as bagel nor as heavy as I would have thought.
At least I'll be able to start developing all of my color film, I have so much of it piled up.
9. What do the numbers on the multi tanks mean, I can't quite tell, they don't really explain very easily what the number system means, for example the 4 x 5 developing real is just called a 2509n I think or 2509 (non N) and is there a difference, I don't understand why it just couldn't say 4x5 reel... Unless I'm wrong which I often a.m., through my research I've only found this one real, it's not like you would get confused if they just called it the JOBO 45 reel. So am I looking at the right one?
10. Where's a good place to get this stuff used, if I buy a real it will actually almost cost me as much as the darn processor. If I end up getting the supersystem version, that everybody says is the only way to go, then it's like $500 which seems a little crazy, is there a place to get them cheap?
Nice! You can use that to develop film AND paper...
Let me be the first on this thread to point out you now have no excuse to not make optical prints
did he make you promise to only use one film for a year as part of the discount?
1. Which processor is it? It looks tiny compared to my CPP2...either way my processor has a rotatable valve that determines the maximum height of the tempering bath, on the right side of the bath trough.
2. There are different rollers for different size tanks...once again in my CPP2 I have interchangeable rollers for small tanks like the unitank, as well as the 2xxx and 3xxx series expert drums.
3. the 4x5 tank is only possible to run on a CPE or CPP as far as I know...I might be mistaken though.
4. Don't bother with the 4x5 drum insert that has separate chambers for the sheets (like a revolver's chambers), it is known not to give optimal development.
5. You sort of just push the film on...imagine a stainless steel reel, but backwards. It's very easy in practice once you are used to it. Try with a bum roll in the light...it seems like it couldn't possibly be the right thing to do, but you really do just push it on, and ease it along using the indented grooves right ahead of where the film slips in. The reason they don't include those nice wide tongues you're used to is because they are a nightmarish source of static. I have had enough important frames ruined by those wide tongue reels that I refuse to use them anymore. I only use the small tooth Paterson reels in my hand tanks, and of course the jobo reels in my jobo tanks.
6. 270-300ml of developer for the small tank, no matter what. double that for the big guy. Don't bother doing 2 120's on the same reel, it's a bitch to get both on there (one roll goes on, then you put a spacer behind it, and load the 2nd roll, it's a pain).
7. as above.
8. can't help you with the 1/2 button thing...track down a pdf of the manual for your particular processor?
...my CPP2 has dials for temp. down to a tenth of a degree, it's possible that this processor does not have such precision...
I really can't answer the questions, but I'm sure Google will be of help. I believe Youtube can be useful as well.
You will have to search for the particular model number of that unit to find what is compatible with it.
From what I understand (and I can be wrong) the sides of some Jobo reels are stepped-in. So, you feed roll film a couple inches like you would a Patterson style, then grab the edges of the film at the stepped-in sides to continue feeding. This I believe is true for the 2502 reels. The 2501 reels, on the other hand, require a special loader. (Remember this for my paragraph about numbers.)
The only Jobo items I have are a 2509n and tank for it; I will roll it across a table when I do 4x5. At one point the 2509 started to come with two plastic retainers that snap on the reel. Apparently, the film had a habit of walking out of the reel, so the retainers (stops) were added. However, posts on APUG have suggested many people have not had any problems without the stops. I believe the "n" denotes a revision when the stops were added (though I could be wrong).
I believe there was another style 4x5 reel that was not perfectly round - a different model, so simply saying 45 would not be sufficient. In general, the numbers have meaning - they are model numbers. For example, there is the 15xx series of tanks and reels, and the 25xx series. A reel from one will not work in a tank for the other,etc. Obviously, the first two digits are the series, and the last two specify the item.
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
The matrix on the tank gives you the relation between film format, the max. capacity of rolls/sheets for that format and (in case of the 2500 the item number of the proper reel) and also the minimum amount the chemicals that is necessary to completely cover the reels in rotational and inversion mode. The bigger number is for inversion (drum loaded with max. number of reels).
2509 is the correct reel for 4x5 sheets. IIRC, it is the predecessor of the current 2509n reel, which is an improved design [edit: I just see that Truzi has explained the differences in his post].
Tank system 2500 instructions:
The processor itself is an older model and I am actually not sure if it will work correctly at all with the newer drums, someone else will have to clarify that. On the newer processors like CPE2 etc the rollers can be adjusted with small extension parts to compensate for the different drum diameters. In any case, the tank must not float and should be fully supported by the rollers.
Also go to the Jobo USA site, they have a lot of technical information available.
Apropos of question #4 - This processor you have will not take an Expert drum, so don't even worry about getting one. The Expert drums are much larger in diameter than the 2500 series drums, and they require geared lids to be driven by the motor, not the magnetic bases like yours has.
1. Be grateful.
2. Read the instructions.
3. Read the instructions again.
4. Read the instructions again.
I think what you have is the first version of the CPE processor.
If the rollers that support the tank are the same as the later CPE, then there are two positions for the rollers, one for the print tanks (apparently what it is set for now), and another for the film tanks. The manuals should cover that. But, for the roll film tank if you're only using the short tank (2 35 reels or 1 120) you don't really need the support rollers.
As noted, the 2509 reel fits in a print tank, there is a short tank that fits a single 2509 reel, then the longer ones will fit multiples. You can use the 2509 reel and tank off the processor if you like, using inversion agitation also. It takes a lot of chemistry, but helps avoid some uneven processing that can occur with rotary processing with the reel. Using the fast speed helps with that too, assuming that unit has two speeds.
Fill the water bath so that the lower 1/2 inch or so of the tank is in the water, for B&W probably don't need to have the tank in the water at all, you can just use it to make sure the chems are all the same temp.
Edit. Just looked at the picture again, it doesn't look like it has a heating element for the water bath? Is there a switch and thermostat for heating?
Also, there is no provisions for the chem bottles in the water bath, so for B&W, I wouldn't worry about the water bath at all. For color, maintaining the bath might be interesting if there is no heating element.
Last edited by bdial; 11-24-2013 at 07:00 AM. Click to view previous post history.