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  1. #11
    bsdunek's Avatar
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    I found a nice stainless utility sink at Habitat for Humanity store. Has a commercial Chicago Faucet which needed new o-rings, and is fine. I don't have a long sink to put the trays in. I just put them on the counter top. I also bought a couple of sets of kitchen cabinets at the HforH store, and made counter tops from 3/4 plywood coated with several coats of marine varnish. It's been working fine for me for more than ten years.
    I would say check out Habitat for Humanity. They have a lot of that sort of stuff and the price is reasonable. Plus, you're helping those in need.
    Bruce

    Moma don't take my Kodachrome away!
    Oops, Kodak just did!
    For all practical purposes, they've taken Kodak away.


    BruceCSdunekPhotography.zenfolio.com

  2. #12

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    "If its not broken, I can't afford it."

  3. #13
    aoresteen's Avatar
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    You don't need marine grade plywood or epoxy. I'm building my 3rd large darkroom that uses regular plywood and oil based paint for the sinks. I make my sinks out of 2x6" (1.5" x 5.5") lumber and 4x9 sheets of 1/2 nice plywood - about $40 a sheet.

    I cut a notch in the 2x6 to hold the plywood bottom:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The ends are mitered - you need at least a 10" chop saw to do it but a 12" saw is better. Clamp and use 2.5" drywall screws to hold them together.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Sink frame corner clamp.jpg 
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    Screw the plywood into the frame using #6 screws 1.5" long. I run a bead of silicon caulk sealer in the notch to help seal it. Here's what they look like sitting on the 2x2 frame supports:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Sinks done 1.jpg 
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ID:	79243

    You MUST seal every seam with silicone caulk and let dry for at least 24 hours. Now use OIL based primer and paint:

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	79244

    I bought mine at Lowe's.

    Use two coats of primer letting it cure for 24 hours in between coats. Then put on 3 coats of oil based paint, let dry 24 hours in between coats. After the last coat let it cure for 72 hours before using it.

    Here are my sinks with the primer on:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1st primer coat.jpg 
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ID:	79245

    I've never had any issues with my sinks as water drains over them. I do not fill them up like a wash tub. I use archival washers and the water just drains out and runs over the sink. If you want a deep sink I would use a wash tub and fiberglass the sink end to the tub and seal it.

    Here's the full story on my current darkroom build.



    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/1...-darkroom.html
    Last edited by aoresteen; 12-31-2013 at 11:17 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Tony
    Newnan, GA

    Cambo 23SF, Hasselblad, Mamiya M645, Rolleiflex 2.8C
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    http://www.oresteen.com/ROLLEI4X4.htm

  4. #14
    Bob Marvin's Avatar
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    "Would I be okay with one of those big plastic utility sinks? "

    Yes, IF you have no room for something larger. My tiny darkroom os also our laundry room and I've managed with a small utility sink. Nevertheless, a REAL darkroom sink, with room to lay out my trays, would be wonderful, if I had the room. I've had to pass on a couple of offers of free stainless steel darkroom sinks for lack of room, which is heart breaking.

  5. #15
    erikg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aoresteen View Post
    You don't need marine grade plywood or epoxy. I'm building my 3rd large darkroom that uses regular plywood and oil based paint for the sinks. I make my sinks out of 2x6" (1.5" x 5.5") lumber and 4x9 sheets of 1/2 nice plywood - about $40 a sheet.

    I cut a notch in the 2x6 to hold the plywood bottom:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	sink bottom lap.jpg 
Views:	22 
Size:	50.1 KB 
ID:	79241

    The ends are mitered - you need at least a 10" chop saw to do it but a 12" saw is better. Clamp and use 2.5" drywall screws to hold them together.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Sink frame corner clamp.jpg 
Views:	23 
Size:	111.7 KB 
ID:	79242

    Screw the plywood into the frame using #6 screws 1.5" long. I run a bead of silicon caulk sealer in the notch to help seal it. Here's what they look like sitting on the 2x2 frame supports:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Sinks done 1.jpg 
Views:	31 
Size:	66.6 KB 
ID:	79243

    You MUST seal every seam with silicone caulk and let dry for at least 24 hours. Now use OIL based primer and paint:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	paint products.jpg 
Views:	24 
Size:	110.8 KB 
ID:	79244

    I bought mine at Lowe's.

    Use two coats of primer letting it cure for 24 hours in between coats. Then put on 3 coats of oil based paint, let dry 24 hours in between coats. After the last coat let it cure for 72 hours before using it.

    Here are my sinks with the primer on:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1st primer coat.jpg 
Views:	32 
Size:	78.3 KB 
ID:	79245

    I've never had any issues with my sinks as water drains over them. I do not fill them up like a wash tub. I use archival washers and the water just drains out and runs over the sink. If you want a deep sink I would use a wash tub and fiberglass the sink end to the tub and seal it.

    Here's the full story on my current darkroom build.



    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/1...-darkroom.html
    Nice. That's pretty much what I did, it's still going strong after 15 years. Best thing is how easy it is to make the most use of available space, unlike a commercial sink.

  6. #16
    smithdoor's Avatar
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    I use a bench with heater under the bench to keep the chemical warm
    Simple and fast for low volume of work
    Today I work in the garage and have to wait for night time.

    Hope it helps
    Dave

    Quote Originally Posted by rubyfalls View Post
    Any thoughts on what is the best cheap sink to go in a darkroom? Would I be okay with one of those big plastic utility sinks?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  7. #17
    rubyfalls's Avatar
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    Wow! Thanks for all the great replies. To answer I few questions, I don't print anything larger than 8x10. Right now, anyway. I develop probably 2-7 rolls per week, on average. Enlarging is done in spurts.

    My darkroom space is a small old utility type room; one side is currently unusable to a roof leak (that will hopefully be fixed soon).

    I have about maybe a max of 40" wide/30" deep to work with. Long story short, the upstairs bathroom is next door. I was taking a bath last week in the giant claw foot tub and -- I bet you can guess what happened next. Clawfoot wobbled out of place, tub crashed down on return pipes, gallons of water cascaded merrily through the house, and yadda yadda yadda, I've got to tear up the floor anyway so might as well plumb over to the darkroom while we are in there.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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