I'll make some photos this evening and then post them. Thanks for the referral to the thread on APUG. I saw that before posting my thread and unfortunately that article deals with the Type A safelight that has a cord rather than a straight pass screw in head on the safelight.
Some problems I have run across:
Check for corrosion on the bottom contact and scrape with a screwdriver.
Some contacts are folded; bend up.
Have used soldering gun to enlarge blob of solder on bottom so it makes contact.
Why are there no speaker jacks on a stereo camera?
I decided to head into the darkroom and have a look at mine. Turned and turned and turned and it didn't come out of the socket, finally realized that metal shell was just spinning around, the Bakelite portion just staying put. Any chance you have reverse going on, the shell starts to spin before the contacts make it to the bottom of the socket?
As Richaed said, check for corrosion on the contacts. Over time a film can build up on the contacts that prevents the flow of electrons. I usually take a small piece of sandpaper and clean any metal contact till bright. Do the same with the base of the bulb.
Hi everyone, Thanks for your patience as I finally get back to this item. I ended up thinking outside of the box and solved the problem. In short, I removed the 'gender changer' screw in device (the item that screws into the receptacle and into which the light bulb screws. I placed the body of the safelight over the properly insulated ceiling receptacle and then screwed essentially a large nut that was part of the receptacle back onto the receptacle thus holding the safelight housing tight. I am now able to screw the bulb directly into the receptacle, there is no light leakage from the top, the metal safelight housing is insulated from electrical activity and, as they say here, Bob's your uncle.
Thank you for your good thoughts and for sharing them. I hope the description wasn't too obtuse.