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  1. #11
    Randy Moe's Avatar
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    Thanks Jack, I will contact Michael Sparks in the future, I first want to get the conversion done and see how it all goes.

    I'm putting zippers on this and it will be faster to pull the lamps out, I had no idea what was holding the whole mess inside on the right side and had to discover the method.

    The first time is always the learning curve.

  2. #12
    Randy Moe's Avatar
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    Well, I broke it down to small parts, and wow, a lot of dust, large piles of dust, behind the mixing chamber, everywhere. You cannot clean one of these without major disassembly. It has no filter on the incoming suction, but it is easy to add one.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Moe View Post
    Well, I broke it down to small parts, and wow, a lot of dust, large piles of dust, behind the mixing chamber, everywhere. You cannot clean one of these without major disassembly. It has no filter on the incoming suction, but it is easy to add one.
    A filter sounds like a good idea. My Durst 8x10 head has a manufacture date around 1992 and it was pretty clean in side when I got it. Looked like new actually. I did not even touch the filters. It has a panel type of intake filter on the back of the head.

  4. #14
    Randy Moe's Avatar
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    I wonder how old this thing is? All battleship grey aluminum. I thought about painting it the more modern black, but rejected that idea as a waste of time and black will simply show more marks and dust. It is of course matte black inside.

  5. #15
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    Air Filtration

    Randy,

    Mine is also painted battleship gray/aluminum …. the color that was used in 1950s!

    I would be most interested in learning how you are going to go about installing an air-filtration method on the incoming (suction) air and would very much appreciate it if you would be willing to share this information.

    Regards,

    Jack
    Jack Rosa

  6. #16
    Randy Moe's Avatar
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    Pretty simple, the main air intake is under the rear square stand-off panel. Very restrictive for some reason, maybe to keep birds out!. I am going to play with several solutions, but the simplest will be a box filter larger than that rear panel that simple mounts over it. I happen to have a 10x20" house furnace filter right here. It's almost the exact size of the rear cabinet, but is too big. I will cut it down into 2 or 3 filters and loosely mount them. Suction should seal them off using the giant squirrel cage fans I got with this. Maybe drill some holes in the panel. I could calculate all this, but intake area is way smaller than the top hose connection, which is also way smaller than the fan intake. A lot of velocity at the filter and inside the lamp chamber. Maybe I will stick a T-couple in there to see what actual temps are.

  7. #17
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    Air Filtration / Air Velocity

    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Moe View Post
    Pretty simple, the main air intake is under the rear square stand-off panel. Very restrictive for some reason, maybe to keep birds out!. I am going to play with several solutions, but the simplest will be a box filter larger than that rear panel that simple mounts over it. I happen to have a 10x20" house furnace filter right here. It's almost the exact size of the rear cabinet, but is too big. I will cut it down into 2 or 3 filters and loosely mount them. Suction should seal them off using the giant squirrel cage fans I got with this. Maybe drill some holes in the panel. I could calculate all this, but intake area is way smaller than the top hose connection, which is also way smaller than the fan intake. A lot of velocity at the filter and inside the lamp chamber. Maybe I will stick a T-couple in there to see what actual temps are.
    Thanks Randy. Only concern I would have would be the reduction is air velocity and its possible effect on cooling the lamp-house. How do you feel about that?
    Jack Rosa

  8. #18

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    You also have to think about light leaks when messing with the air inlet, you don't want to fog all your highlights. My head had significant light leakage at the inlet that I had to make a little baffle out of gaff tape to reduce the leakage. Just a thought.

  9. #19
    Randy Moe's Avatar
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    There is an internal light/heat baffle dividing the area behind the mixing box. I think it blocks light and also makes the cooling air run the long way around the chambers. If light is emitting from the rear air intake outside baffle a filter could be boxed to solve that problem. I haven't fully powered up yet. I'm wired, but I ordered new lamp sockets. I got rid of the main power wire hanging out the back and converted to a computer type power socket. Much cleaner and no frayed wires

    Heck, I am not even going to use a timer for a while, just let a metronome tick and count off. Finger timer.

    I will be selling 4 original power supplies...

    Eric, are you still using yours?

    Quote Originally Posted by Erik L View Post
    You also have to think about light leaks when messing with the air inlet, you don't want to fog all your highlights. My head had significant light leakage at the inlet that I had to make a little baffle out of gaff tape to reduce the leakage. Just a thought.

  10. #20

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    Yeah Randy, I use mine all the time and am following your progress for when my power supply eventually dies and I have to consider how to best fix it...
    Good luck

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