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  1. #21
    Monophoto's Avatar
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    I've done this many times. If you develop a rhythm, it is relatively easy to do.

    You didn't mention what size prints you are working on. My experience is that it is easier to use one easel - otherwise, you have to reframe as you shift from one easel to another. If you are working on "standard" size prints, a "speed easel" is easier to use than a multi-size easle that opens like a book. With a speed easel you simply slip the paper into the slot, judge by feel that it is in the right position, and make the print. I have a collection that I have picked up at garage sales - 4x5, 5x7, 8x10 and postcard.


    Someone suggested using a higher developer dilution. Actually, this is probably a good idea. One of the problems with gang development is that some of the prints dwell longer in the developer than others. Using a higher dilution means that the development time is longer. If it takes, for example, 30 sec to transfer the prints from developer to stop, and your development time is 2 minutes, then you are potentially developing some prints 25% longer than others. But if diluted developer requires 4 minutes for normal development, the potential difference between the first and last print is only 12.5%.

  2. #22
    Maine-iac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by srs5694
    I'm wondering if anybody has suggestions for equipment or procedures to handle processing several (say, half a dozen or more) small (4x6 or 5x7) prints.
    Two words: divided development.

    See my article in the Chemistry Recipes section of the forum for details. By dividing your developer into two parts--developing agents in Bath A and development activator in Bath B, you eliminate need for time/temperature controls and will get absolutely consistent and repeatable results from batch to batch. For batch printing, I know of no other technique that is so easy or gives such repeatable results. You will have to mix your own developer, but virtually any one you wish to mix will work. Good old D-72 (Dektol) will do just fine.

    Larry

  3. #23
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Another thing that I don't think anyone's mentioned is--if I'm using a 4 blade easel (which I usually do), I put a piece of masking tape as a stop along the blade used for positioning the paper, so I can do it quickly without having to check each time that it's centered.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Monophoto
    If you are working on "standard" size prints, a "speed easel"
    is easier to use than a multi-size easle that opens like a book.
    With a speed easel you simply slip the paper into the slot, ...
    Many years ago I had a similar type easel. The bed was
    spring loaded; left hand on the lever and with the right
    the paper was inserted. Very fast.

    I did a lot of 8x10s with that easel. Single Weight.
    Batch processing is not so easy now days; double weight
    and stiff RC.

    A dilute one-shot developer is a good suggestion.
    Follow with a weak one-shot sulfite or bisulfite stop if
    the fix is acid. Dan

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