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Thread: Slosher (pic)

  1. #31
    mikewhi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monophoto
    I've only experimented with stand development once - and in that case I used a tank rather than the slosher so that I had the freedom to turn on the lights and leave the darkroom. In his presentation at the LF conference this spring, Steve Sherman said that his experience is that stand development works best with a tank of some sort and with the sheet in a vertical position - he didn't say why, but I suspect that it is this floatation issue.
    Did he use the old stainless tank with the stainless hangers??? It seems we've come full circle again. At one point everyone was doing everything they could to get away from tanks\hangers - going to trays, then LF daylight inversion tanks, then JOBO's. And now it's back to stainless tanks. I think I threw all of mine away.

    Does anyone know where to get 7x17 stainless tanks with hangers???


    -Mike

  2. #32

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    With Pyrocat-HD, stand development in a PF Slosher produced identical results to stand development in a tube. Film was Efke 100 8x10. No differences were noted between vertical and horizontal film position.
    Tom Hoskinson
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  3. #33
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    Steve had his tank with him - it was a black plastic tank about 8: in diameter. I don't believe that it had been created by it's maker with the intention that it be used in a photo darkroom - but I don't recall what he described to be it's original function.

    Incidentaly - by way of update - I processed a number of rolls of 35mm TMY using the stand process in Rodinal 1+200 (one hour, five gentle inversions during every 30 seconds for the first two minutes followed by an additional five inverstions at 30 minutes) this weekend. I did four rolls in a traditional four-reel tank. Very pleased with the results.

  4. #34
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    I wonder about these sloshers. Does the film actually rest against the bottom of the plexiglass device? Seems like it would, or, perhaps, the film would float on the survace of the chemicals, and get uneven development? I guess sloshing the device around would keep the negs in motion, counteracting this, but that would defeat the purpose of stand / semi-stand development. I am probably missing something here....




    Quote Originally Posted by Monophoto
    Here's a photo of my home-built 4x5 slosher. It was modeled after one that Chip Forelli let us use in a workshop last summer that in turn was modeled after one that he had used in a workshop with John Sexton.

    The dimensions are not critical - the inside dimensions of each of the six "boxes" has to be slightly larger than a sheet of 4x5 film - I made mine about 4.25 by 5.25. The overall outside dimension has to fit into your 11x14 tray. The holes are 1" diameter. Each box has two 1" holes - the idea is that lowering the slosher into the tray forces chemicals through the holes - this lifts the negative sheets a bit, both for agitation and to assure that chemical flow all around the sheets. I cut an opening from the "outside" hole in each "box" to the edge of the bottom to provide a way to grasp each sheet of film.

    Total construction time was about an hour - I bought one sheet of 1/4" plexiglass at Home Depot from which I was able to construct both the six sheet slosher and a smaller unit that does two sheets in an 8x10 tray.

  5. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by JeffD
    I wonder about these sloshers. Does the film actually rest against the bottom of the plexiglass device? Seems like it would, or, perhaps, the film would float on the survace of the chemicals, and get uneven development? I guess sloshing the device around would keep the negs in motion, counteracting this, but that would defeat the purpose of stand / semi-stand development. I am probably missing something here....
    I have used the 8x10 PF Slosher plus the very similar 4x5 and 5x7 Summitek Cradles for stand and semi-stand developing many sheets of film (film horizontal). The Slosher and the Cradle are of very similar designs and are both fabricated from an Acrylic plastic material.

    I have also done comparison testing with duplicate negatives stand and semi-stand developed in ABS plastic tubes (film vertical).

    My results with Pyrocat-HD have been identical with both systems.

    I pre-soak the film for about 5 minutes in deionized water (20 megaohm - measured) with both systems.

    In the Slosher (or Cradle) the film remains immersed in the developer (emulsion side up) with the back of the film in contact with or just above the bottom of the tray. The film does not float on the surface of the developer.

    In the tubes, the film's emulsion is facing the liquid contents of the tube and the back side rests against the wall of the tube.
    Tom Hoskinson
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  6. #36
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    JeffD -

    Iv'e watched pretty carefully what happens in a slosher with the lights on (while washing film). If the film is left to stand in a slosher without agitation, it will either drop to the bottom of the slosher or float on the surface.

    Sloshers have holes in the bottom. Agitation is by lifting one corner, dropping it back into the tray, and then lifting the opposite corner. That forces the chemical to flow through up the holes in the bottom of the slosher, lifting the sheet off of the bottom surface. Then, as the opposite corner is lifted, chemicals flow back over the film, forcing it back to the bottom.

    Of course, the film is processed emulsion-side up, so the only thing that actually touches the emulsion is chemicals.

    My experience (with three sloshers, albeit all based on a common design) is that agitation development is amazingly even. I have not tried to do stand development in a slosher. In his presentation at the LF Conference in May, Steve Sherman said that in his experience, stand development must be done with the negative in a vertical position in a tank - he didn't say why, but it makes sense to me that this orientation would assure that the negative remain under the surface of the chemical and that the emulsion never come in contact with the tank.

  7. #37

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    As I've previously stated, my data taken with Pyrocat-HD, pre-soaking and stand development in both sloshers and BZT type tubes shows no difference between the vertical (tube) and horizontal (slosher/cradle).

    Films I use and have compared are Efke 100, J&C Classic 400 and Kodak TMY.

    Different films, developers and development techniques may produce different results.
    Tom Hoskinson
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    Everything is analog - even digital :D

  8. #38

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    For anyone wanting to build one of these trays, one of the adhesives used to glue acrylic is called Weld-on 16 . They also have other thinner versions. The weld-on 16 is a bit thicker and fills gaps a bit better.

    I have also found through searches that a saw blade with a high number of teeth with no offset is best. Blades designed for cutting aluminum or copper are the best. I have not tested this yet.

    I am planning on building a smaller 4 (4X5) sheet version and if it goes well, the 6 sheet.

    Thanks to Monophoto (I don't know your first name) for all the information.

  9. #39

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    Wow,

    finally I know the official name for the gizmo I made myself for stand developping 4x5 sheets!
    Thanks, the models featured here are well built. I should tune my slosher too!

    As opposed to what others say, I never had uneven development or other unwanted faults on my negatives, but as I only started with 4x5 (shot some 80 sheets), this statistic should not be taken for granted.

    G

  10. #40

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    And here I thought that a "slosher" was something to automatically slosh the trays back and forth! I made one of those from a piece of Plexiglas and some nylon screws and nuts. Constructing mine just required some drilling.

    I went to Tap Plastics and had them cut a 4.5 x 5.5 piece of plastic. Then I bought six nylon screws and 12 nylon nuts. The plastic was drilled out so that there is one screw at each short side (4"), and two screws on each long side (5"). The plastic is drilled out so that solution can easily flow on the bottom. The screws are position to hold the film on the edges. The film is held off the bottom by the nuts.

    Its best used with a side-to-side motion. An up-and-down motion may dislodge the film from being held by the screws. Initially I give it a real vigorous side-to-side motion to dislodge any air from under the film. Then I just give it normal agitation. It works just fine for one sheet, and no scratching!

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