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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by jamnut
    There is no need to pay more than $8 for a foot switch for the gralab digital timers. Radio Shack has a recorder footswitch that will work just fine; I have one on my gralab 645. Footswitch runs $6.99 @ RS stores, or at their web site.
    Thanks jamnut! I got one for my Gralab 505, and it works fine. Saved me about $17 - I was going to buy one on ebay.
    Maybe I should thank Gralab, for using a very common connector and switching system/
    Last edited by TheFixer; 08-05-2005 at 09:04 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: .

  2. #12

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    Quick qustion. I have a 120v ByChrome Vacuum easel. The foot switch is dead. I need a switch that'll stay on when I click it until I click it again. What is the nomenclature for that type of switch?

    Thanks,
    Peter

  3. #13

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    Peter,
    Not sure of the technical description, but, it connects to the timer by a mini plug, similar to the headphone jack on many portable audio players. It also comes with a 1/4" phono adapter.
    When I start the timer with the footswitch, it will count down until I press the footswitch again. It will stop; it will start again if I press the footswitch. I think it might work for your application, Besides, for $7, what ya have to lose?

  4. #14
    Bob F.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter De Smidt
    Quick qustion. I have a 120v ByChrome Vacuum easel. The foot switch is dead. I need a switch that'll stay on when I click it until I click it again. What is the nomenclature for that type of switch?

    Thanks,
    Peter
    "Latching" or "non-momentary" or "push on - push off". Obviously, any switch you get needs to be able to handle 120V. If it is connected directly to the vacuum motor, it needs to be rated for inductive loads at whatever the current rating of the motor may be.

    Bob.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by David Brown
    Agreed. If all the timer needs is a momentary closure (short), than any switch works. It's a matter of matching up plugs, or opening the box to get at the wires.
    The socket for the footswitch on mine has four prongs; two fat, two thinner. I am not confident in just making presumptions as to what pair does what, and I would not be surprised of the maker mismatched the pair just to make their switch even more proprietary.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by eric
    Thanks again guys, I love the McGyverisms on this web site. I bought the Radio Shack Recorder footswitch for $6.99 and it works just dandy on my Gralab 450.
    By the way, thanks for this tidbit. I was wandering through the local Radio Shack and found one of these goodies on sale (clearance...?) for $4.98. Works great on my 450.

    S

  7. #17
    Charles Webb's Avatar
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    Does anybody know if the Radio Shack switch could be made to work with an old GraLab 300 ? It is not set up for operation with a foot switch, but I believe it could be. I know very little about such things!

    Thanks,

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Webb
    Does anybody know if the Radio Shack switch could be made to work with an old GraLab 300 ? It is not set up for operation with a foot switch, but I believe it could be. I know very little about such things!

    Thanks,
    Yes, I have a 300 as well. I guess that the toggle switch would have to be replaced with a phono plug. Is it safe to do this? I think the footswitch would work then.

  9. #19
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    jjstafford...Are they really? I truly need a footswitch a Chromeacontrol and, of course, the manufacturer uses a proprietary plug. It's just a mystery to me and as of recently, I've become reluctant to experiment with electrical things.


    So I guess the Time-O-Lite FS-65 Foot Switch w/adapter won't work on a Chromegatrol?

    Any other suggestions without forking out the $200+ for their 'proprietary plug'?

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by ootsy
    Yes, I have a 300 as well. I guess that the toggle switch would have to be replaced with a phono plug. Is it safe to do this? I think the footswitch would work then.
    Just wire the 1/4" receptacle in parrallel with the toggle then you have both.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

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