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  1. #61
    Troy Hamon's Avatar
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    Haven't painted yet, but wanted to attach a floor layout in case people are interested...I should have posted it months ago since it was done last summer, but hadn't thought to do so.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails darkroom layout.jpg‎  

  2. #62
    Troy Hamon's Avatar
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    Almost done painting. The wet bench frame is painted and the dry counter support frame has a primer coat. My list of things to do is to install another shelf on the wet side, cut a countertop insert for the sink hole (the dry side counters have a hole where there was formerly a kitchen sink...eventually I'm going to put in an in-counter light-box, but for now I just want it to be functional...), and notice that is different than sinkhole, install lines for hanging film and prints to dry, and finish painting. I really could just go in and develop film quite easily now...but I think I'm going to make myself finish. So close...so sweet...

  3. #63
    rbarker's Avatar
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    Painting? Are you telling us the counters aren't solid black walnut (most appropriate for a darkroom)?
    [COLOR=SlateGray]"You can't depend on your eyes if your imagination is out of focus." -Mark Twain[/COLOR]

    Ralph Barker
    Rio Rancho, NM

  4. #64
    Troy Hamon's Avatar
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    Actually...yes. I am telling you that! Sad isn't it. In point of fact the dry side counter is castoff kitchen countertop sitting on a frame of...2x4's. Which could be black walnut, since I wouldn't know how to tell, but...it's not. The wet side bench is a huge wooden door sitting on its side...on a frame of...2x4's. Again. I wonder when 2x4's will become the vogue for internal decorating? Maybe...NEVER? Oh well.

  5. #65
    Troy Hamon's Avatar
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    Wet side is done. Last night I put water in the tank, tonight I finished filling it up. The little shelf behind the laundry tub is in, the painting is all done (on the wet side), and I mixed up chemicals to develop a year's worth of film tomorrow...

    Then, since I was in high gear anyway, I laid out all the developing tanks I have, pulled out exposed film that needed developed, laid the reels in front of the tanks with the film in front of them...I actually crack myself up sometimes. I have to have everything laid out just so, to facilitate being able to find what I want in the dark. Or so I tell myself. But I have this horrible habit of squeezing my eyes shut tight while loading film in the pitch black...and I usually end up turning the light on a number of times in between tank loadings. Tonight was no different.

    As usual, the first time back loading 35mm is painful. I really don't like it compared to 120, but I love my Widelux so it is a fair trade. I loaded 14 rolls of film and put them in tanks. Tomorrow, I'll develop them and load another 14...and on it goes until I finish all the film I've backlogged. I really can barely believe it...it's finally happening!

    Still some work to do on the finish for the dry side, but that is minor work at this point. In case the message didn't come through above...I can't believe it, I'm working in my darkroom!!!!!!

  6. #66
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    Name of sheet metal shop/contact info?

    Regarding Photobum's message: Can you provide the name of the shop that made your sink? I am in Northern NJ and it sounds like a much better option than others I am considering.
    Thanks
    Neal Wilson

    Quote Originally Posted by photobum
    Do you have a basement to build in? If it is below sewer drainage level a pump is easy to install. A shed in Alaska sounds kind of harsh. I rebuilt my darkroom last year. The best up-grades were a 9 foot 1 1/2" stainless steel sink to replace my 8 foot homemade plywood sink. I had a 9"3" wall for a sink and I framed it out with 2x4's. I found a sheet metal shop that could work with a 12' brake. I ordered a 30"x108" sink with a 3/4" lip all around by 5" deep. The extra large sink is wonderful to work with. Cost $600. Lots of extras lights, safe lights and 4 gang outlets. To top it all off was a Bose CD radio. Now I sometimes hang out in the darkroom just to fool around and hear the CD player.

  7. #67
    glbeas's Avatar
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    Congrats Troy! I know what you are talking about.
    Gary Beasley

  8. #68
    Troy Hamon's Avatar
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    Developed the film that I had loaded in tanks yesterday...came out great, which feels wonderful after so long away from the game...but have reached the point where now I am reminded why construction projects should be finished before you put them to work.

    I have the negatives drying, but I haven't cleaned up or arranged the dry side for work, it is still full of tools because I keep adding things to do...so I now have to clear out a place to work with the negatives to sleeve and store them...without creating dust...hmmmmmm. Oh well. It is magic to see photos showing up on the film after all this time.

    I also worked some on lightproofing the door and the wall/ceiling joints today. The bottom of the door is the biggest problem at this point, but I didn't have a solution for that yet...

  9. #69
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    Theres a product made called a door sweep. Just a rubber flap mounted on an aluminum bar that mounts to the base of the door. Use this in conjunction with a floor mounted sill that firmly contacts the sweep when the door closes and all you need to deal with is the corners, which foam weatherstripping blocks packed in judiciously will practically do a perfect fit.
    Gary Beasley

  10. #70
    Jim Jones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Troy Hamon
    . . . I also worked some on lightproofing the door and the wall/ceiling joints today. The bottom of the door is the biggest problem at this point, but I didn't have a solution for that yet...
    A light trap can be improvised from black fabric held to the bottom of the door with a batten. Better yet is a door sill with a small step, and a matching step on the door bottom. With close tolereances those two right-angle turns block almost all light. Foam rubber can block light around the sides and top of the door, and provides an air seal so the only air entering the darkroom can be efficiently filtered. Painting the door sill and frame and all edges of the door black helps. Black tape works if you don't want a permanent fix.



 

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