Plasterboard and Plumbing - Help Please!

[stormbytes]

In contrast to posts advising against wetting joint tape, i would advise you to compromise as follows:

Apply a thin layer of joint compound directly on the seem. THEN apply the tape along the now-wet seam and, using a 4' plaster knife, press the tape down firmly on the seam while moving the plaster knife along the entire length. Follow up by applying another thin layer of joint compound along the top surface of the tape and presto! you're done.

As for plumbing:

I would strongly advise you to invest in a good leedahl mixing panel. These can be had relatively inexpensively on eBay nowadays. Doing so would solve/address several issues simultaneously. Most Leedahl mixing panels have an integrated filtration system eliminating literaly 90% of anything you'd have to worry about and, you can easily attach a 1/2" copper pipe to the outlet of the mixing panel which can then be used to set up as many spouts/spigots as you want, each with it's own independent valve. This would give you filtered, tempered water for all your darkroom applications.

Coincidently I just finished a 60+ hour darkroom plumbing marathon a few days ago. Integrating the Leedahl mixing valve into my darkroom plumbing was the best thing since buying a pro print washer. I now have total temperature control over all my water and won't risk shocking emulsion with radical temperature changes.

My 2 Cents

[Buster6X6]

All advise is good so fahr. I just would like to add. In north America studding is done 16" centre to centre. You should build the walls first. Get your plumbing sorted out and installed. Your wiring and fixtures sorted out and installed.Insulate whole area with fiberglass insulation and what no one had said yet is to install vapour barrier on all outside walls and the ceiling.Use fiberglass tape to tape joints it is self adhesive and then you trowel on your drywall compound.If you don't install vapour barrier it will sweat and mildew in time.

My two sents Greg

[George Collier]

One small addition to all this great advice. When all done, you will see, from the inside with lights off for a half hour, all the little leaks in corners, around pipes, etc. Get an can (pressurized) of eurithane insulation. It comes with a small straw-like tube, which you insert into the nozzle (like WD40 oil). You can fill all those little leaks with this material, which comes out a thick ooze, and expands considerably as it dries. Then it trims off easily with a razor blade, and, I think can be painted (I didn't bother). You would do this before painting, but do all of them at once, I seem to remember that once the can is used, there is a limit on how long it will stay good. It takes the pressure off making perfect joints.