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  1. #11
    Eric Mac's Avatar
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    g

    I got my heaters from that auction site. Try "aquarium heater titanium". it was a Won brand.

    Please be cautious in their use as I suspect that they were not made for this.

    Eric

    Quote Originally Posted by ggriffi
    Eric,

    Can you tell me where you got the heater at? I need to do something very similar to what you are doing?

    g
    Dad, is the lens cap suppose to be on?.

  2. #12
    ggriffi's Avatar
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    Eric, thanks a lot. My plan actually is to buy an aquarium as well as a heater, so that I can keep a more uniform temp for my chemicals. I currently have a plastic tub which only holds enough water to get about half way up the plastic bottles I use.

    g

  3. #13

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    There are different wattage of aquarium heater around from 50W upwards. Each is made for a different maximum volume of water. The other thing to look for is shatterproof heaters, they don't break if you take them out of the liquid or put them into cold liquid when switched on.

  4. #14

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    I've got the won 300 watt non-digital. You don't want the one with a digital display because that one isn't adjustable. At least IIRC. Plenty of fish shops selling them and to be honest considering what I paid for mine [about $25?] I doubt Ebay could be any cheaper.

  5. #15

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    Is everyone using these heaters still alive? I'm thinking about getting one for my developer tray anyway.

  6. #16
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    Can the heater be placed in the actual paper developer? I was thinking of installing one into an oversized rubbermaid tub and placing the developer tray into the tub. What about tempering the stop bath & fixer? How crucial?

  7. #17
    Eric Mac's Avatar
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    Still here

    I have used the 3 heaters (dev, stop and fixer) for two sessions and am still around. I would advise a GFIC receptacle for added protection. I am putting the heaters in the chemistry.

    Eric
    Dad, is the lens cap suppose to be on?.

  8. #18

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    My darkroom stays at about 60F all winter. I put an electric heating pad (the kind used for sore muscles, etc.) underneath the developer tray to bring temp up to 68F. The pad is plugged into a GFCI and I try to keep it dry. It works really well but I have to keep checking the temperature since there is no thermostat.

  9. #19

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    I wonder if the titanium is necessary in a submersible. They also make stainless steel heaters, but I cant find out what kind of stainless it is. They only recommend them for fresh water though, so I dont think Dektol would qualify. I've also thought about putting an electric blanket on the underside of my plywood sink, but I'm way too paranoid (and sloppy/splashy) to put one IN it.

  10. #20

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    Someone in an above thread mentioned the Delongi heaters, they look like an old radiator, miniature. They use an oil to circulate and maintain output, fairly cheap to use). I use one all winter in my darkroom-black tape over the little red indicator light. I turn it on a couple of hours before I work, I know the setting to use to bring up the darkroom to 70 (the darkroom sits at 60 all winter). There is a large deep area at the end of my sink, which I fill to just over 1 inch with very hot water, placing the 1 gallon chemistry jugs into it. By the time the room is up, the chemistry is close, then everything stays the same for the printing session. You are comfortable, and so is the soup. (by the way, I am not coming close to the capacity of the heater, which maintains temp even with the exhaust on.)

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