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  1. #11

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    I also use water baths to get chemistry down to 20C in the summer. For film, a very small amount of refrigerated water in a 0.25-liter measuring cup will chill a 0.5-liter bottle with 0.25 liters of chemistry quite quickly. (I just chill the developer; I don't bother with the other chemicals.) For paper, I've not had problems, but my darkroom is in my basement and seldom gets above 30C.

    Another option, though, is to use a "tropical" developer. Anchell describes these in The Darkroom Cookbook. Some conventional developers can be converted into tropical variants by adding sodium sulfate (note: sulfate, not sulfite). Try 105g per liter of working solution. Anchell's got a table with times and temperatures on p. 58. He also presents several specialty tropical developers elsewhere in the book.

    In extreme conditions, you might want to combine both approaches. At 37C, the developing solution temperature is likely to rise significantly from 20C as you develop the film unless you've got a large enough mass of ~20C water to use as a tempering bath between agitations. If you use a tropical developer with an optimum temperature of, say, 32C, the temperature rise over the course of development may be small enough that you don't need to worry about it; you just need to reduce the initial temperature by 5C.

  2. #12

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    I've stopped fighting the heat. Using Perceptol 1:3, I established sets of times for 75 degrees F and 81 degrees F. It's almost never warmer than 81 here on a summer morning and, if it is, I'll wait a few days to process the film. Printing is relegated to the other three seasons.

  3. #13
    juan's Avatar
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    Like Sal, I've stopped fighting the heat. I was able to chill everything when shooting 35mm and 120, but now with large format, I find it easier to establish summer developing times at 80F (27C) - the temperature of my tap water. Pyrocat HD works fine at that temperature.

    As for me, fans and as little attire as I can get by with.
    juan

  4. #14

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    I think Anchell's Darkroom Cookbook has some stuff on developers that are appropriate for use in very hot climates that you might find useful. Hand mixing, though.

  5. #15
    Eric Mac's Avatar
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    Cooling off

    In my quest for ways of heating up my chemistry, I ended up with salt water aquarium heaters. Browsing through the salt water aquarium sites, they also make an aquarium water chilling/heating unit. This set the smalls cogs in my head for some sort of water bath system until I saw that the price for some of these units are $500 to$1000. For that money I can get an a/c unit that cools me down also.

    For every problem there is a ways to make it more complicated.

    Eric
    Dad, is the lens cap suppose to be on?.

  6. #16

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    Hate to say this but considering the hours you will be spending in the darkroom I would bite the bullet and install insulation and air conditioning in at least a portion of your space.
    Claire (Ms Anne Thrope is in the darkroom)

  7. #17
    df cardwell's Avatar
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    brett weston used to work at night in his open air darkroom...

    shoot, in colorado I could even open all the windows and doors and print au plein !
    "One of the painful things about our time is that those who feel certainty are stupid,
    and those with any imagination and understanding are filled with doubt and indecision"

    -Bertrand Russell

  8. #18
    Nicole's Avatar
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    There's loads of info and inspiration here. Thank you all very much!

  9. #19

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    Apr 2003
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    There are processors, and I belive that Jobo has some of them, but if I am wrong for Jobo, there are others, which have option for cooling down chemicals. If you can fin one cheap... And for cooling yourself down, well...

  10. #20

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    hi I even do not have so problems in my darkroom so I do not see any proble in winterr more problems are in summer i think

    peter

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