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  1. #11

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    I don't think my 2521 has ribs. I'll check later. I wonder if they just used what they had the most of -)

  2. #12
    Denis P.'s Avatar
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    John,

    Quote Originally Posted by John_Brewer
    Nick, my 2521 has ribs inside and says 2521 outside. I think Jobo may have used the bottom parts of 2840 print drums as these are identical in size to 2521.

    Denis, cogs and bits are availabe here http://www.firstcall-photographic.co...rocessing.html

    I made a CPE2 pdf manual, 108 pages from the Jobo website. If anyone wants a copy (1.52mb) just email me.

    J

    You can imagine my surprise when I got my 2840 print drums (two drums, but only one lid - the one with beaker), and when I realized that the smaller bottom part is actually a 2521 drum!!!

    Yipee!!!

    Anyway, I now have two lids with cogs for this series (25xx/28xx drums) - to be used on JOBO rotary processors, and one with a beaker (to be used manually).

    I must admit that the more I see of Jobo stuff, the more it amazes me. Very ingenious stuff, and very exchangeable and configurable. Reminds me of Lego cubes

    In short, in the past several months, I managed to add several more drums and bits (4x5 reels, for example) to my collection, so now I'm pretty much covered in all formats I use on my old Jobo CPE 2 processor (from 35mm to 5x7).

    The more I use Jobo processor and drums, the more I like them

    Regards,

    Denis

  3. #13

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    My 2521 is ribbed, so when I was offered a second one from a friend, I converted it to develop films by gluing in the little triangular tabs with polyurethane glue. I don't have a cup, so I just spot glued a center core in place -make sure it is centered- to take care of the light leak problem. As long as I am careful of the center core in loading & cleaning, it works well and fits my CPE.

  4. #14
    Denis P.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimVermont
    I don't have a cup, so I just spot glued a center core in place -make sure it is centered- to take care of the light leak problem. As long as I am careful of the center core in loading & cleaning, it works well and fits my CPE.
    Tim,

    You don't need a center core to make the lid light-tight.

    Just plug the bottom hole of the lid. Tested and tried. Works!

    BTW, I can't claim to have discovered that myself - one of the cog lids I got with my 2523 drum for developing 4x5 sheets already had a plugged bottom hole (looks original, too!).

    Later, when I got 2840 paper drums to process 5x7 sheets, I was wondering about getting (or making) extension center core, when I remembered that I don't need it at all! Just used the 2840 drum for 4 5x7 sheets yesterday (without the center core, with plugged bottom lid hole), and no light leaks!
    One out of four 5x7 sheets got "glued" to the inner wall of the drum, and was not developed properly, though Three out of four came out OK - not really bad for the first time....
    I'll have to be more careful next time, though, and watch carefully how the sheets go in. Either that, or make another DIY plastic "blanket" like the one I described earlier in this thread.

    Attached (bad) photo shows unplugged (usual) lid on the left, and the one on the right has the hole plugged. No big deal, a simple DIY job really - just use appropriate diameter rubber plug, or whatever is at hand

    Denis
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails jobo-cog-lids.JPG  

  5. #15

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    I am very new at developing B&W and am also new to the JOBO system (less than 2 months).

    I Just learned from the batch I just ran thru my JOBO cpa2 this afternoon that while using the Expert Drum (3005)for 5x7 film or the older 3013 for some 4x5 film was that my film slipped down too far and I ended up scratching the emulsion on 2 sheets with a fingernail. I think I will try to use the smaller drums for the 5x7 film and save the 3005 for the 8x10 film. I can see where placing some tab inside the 3013 would be beneficial for the 4x5 film due to it sliding down too far inside the drum.

    When using the JOBO, I put the emulsion side out for processing. (If I am thinking of this properly, i.e., the side of the film exposed, is that the emulsion side?)

    I found the 3005 drum awkward with the 5x7 film, but given its length, would it work for 11x14 film when I move up to ULF?

    The bright side was I confirmed that my batch of DD-X 1:4 which was mixed 26 days ago was still good with normal development time. I messed up when I mixed the DD-X concentrate and mixed it all at once....

    Thanks for reading my rambling comments. JON

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