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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike A
    Michael thanks for the input on the IR LED's, I agree with your point and it only makes sense to test as we all use different materials and have varied conditions.

    John, I'm using good old scheduled 40 grey pipe for my tubes w/caps in semistand but your acrylic tank sounds nice. Do you view your negs through the tank while they develope or do you pull and inspect them at 70% development time? By the way that monster 8x10 enlarger you posted is sweet.

    Thanks for the help guys. I'll buy a battery and try it out before I pay $25.00 shipping for a $37.00 item.

    Good light,
    Mike A
    Yes I can look right at them. Any color of chemicals does not show. In fact the presoak water is dark purple in the light but transparent with IR. I do my initial agitation, and look at each one at the end of that. If one is to be N- it will already have some development showing. I will put that one in front so I can watch it. When I agitate half way thru. I will put them in order of pull. When I pull the first one the next one will be up for inspection. Yep, that enlarger IS sweet. I've already made some 20x24's with it. I am also getting the hang of split printing. If you want to make some tanks. The INSIDE dimensions are 10.5x10.5x2.5. That is for kodak 8x10 hangers it uses 4L of chemicals. I semistand pyrocat-hd 1.5:1:200, so that works out to 30ml-A,20ml-b, water to 4L.

  2. #12

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    Thanks John, I think I'll give the tank system a whirl. I tied using DBI in conjunction with semistand and 4 tubes, It got to be to much pulling them in and out to inspect. I can fabricate something from the local hardware or maybe http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/default.asp As for hangers I'm going to have to think of something for 11x14? maybe just use dividers like a film washer, any ideas?

    Mike A

  3. #13

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    I agree Clarence that on paper the wavelength appears to be beyond the range of concern, but why did my film fog when I tested it to a sampling of the output (clearly no closer than a tray above a light source) for a reasonable amount of time?

    I would analogize this situation to safe lights. All sorts of companies produce a safe light, but you do not know if yours is truly safe until you conduct a safe light test under stringent conditions. It is one of the first steps in a Sexton workshop for a reason. Identical situation applies here as the variables are unique to each circumstance.

    Cheers!

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Kadillak
    I agree Clarence that on paper the wavelength appears to be beyond the range of concern, but why did my film fog when I tested it to a sampling of the output (clearly no closer than a tray above a light source) for a reasonable amount of time?
    What voltage were you running through the LED's? If you go past the recommended voltage you will have a spread of wavelength (I believe this is what was discussed in using the red bulbs as safelights and this would apply to the straight IR, too).
    Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!

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  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Kadillak
    I agree Clarence that on paper the wavelength appears to be beyond the range of concern, but why did my film fog when I tested it to a sampling of the output (clearly no closer than a tray above a light source) for a reasonable amount of time?
    Sorry Michael, it was just my pathetic attempt at humour. The ebay seller listed the wavelength as 850m (meters) the seller also uses mm on some other listings - IR wavelengths are usually listed in nanometers, or 'when I were a lad' millimicrons.

    You are absolutely right - testing is the only way to be sure.

    I bought an ATN Viper a couple of months ago based on useful information from Sean and others. It works great, but have only used it to load film so far. I am interested in the LED array, but as others have mentioned the emission spectrum may depend on other variables. The hint from Matt Miller to leave the lens cap with the tiny hole on to increase depth of field is much appreciated.

    Cheers,
    Clarence

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike A
    Thanks John, I think I'll give the tank system a whirl. I tied using DBI in conjunction with semistand and 4 tubes, It got to be to much pulling them in and out to inspect. I can fabricate something from the local hardware or maybe http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/default.asp As for hangers I'm going to have to think of something for 11x14? maybe just use dividers like a film washer, any ideas?

    Mike A
    The only problem I see with anything you can get commercially is it will probably use a vast amount of chemicals. I made mine out of 1/4 in thick acrylic, so I could make them to the optimum size. I/8 in was to flexible. I always thought if I was going to 11x14 I would cut and expand some 8x10 hangers. Did Kodak ever make 11x14 hangers? A tank with dividers might work. I see a potential problem in that the sheets might lean up against the divider on the emulsion side. I would make the dividers about 1/2 in low so I could get to the sheets. I think the film is to flexy to just have a slot in the ends. I've seen uneven development sometimes when emulsion side is up against the hanger. Probably not a problem with normal or continuous agitation but I have had it with semistand, and compose acordingly. If I was to do 11x14 right now I would Probably use the tubes also. I agree that pulling them out to inspect would be a PITA. It would also defeat the purpose of stand development as you agitate to inspect. There goes consistency. Tray developing is always an option. I found I don't scratch film when I pull the bottom one out square with the stack, and bow the bottom center as I place it on top of the stack.Pulling out diagonally is where the corners were scratching my film. Downside is I would have to give up semistand. I don't want to give up the negs I'm getting now.

  7. #17

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    I claculated that for 11x14 you would need a tank 14.5x13.5x2.75. That would use 2 L of chemicals. That is based on the depth of the top of the hanger to top of film in my 8x10 hanger. My tanks cover film and an extra 1/4 in.

  8. #18
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    My conclusion is that when you can see a modest red "glow" from the LED bank there is a potential for a problem that unless you conduct testing on your own you might not even know that it is there. The larger number of LED's, the greater the risk IMHO. When I turn the light bank away from my film and bounce the IR light off of a light wall 6 feet away on the other side of the room I do not have a problem with fogging.
    This is a problem; the lights DO have some output that is not IR, and Tmax film as enough sensitivity to pick it up (I've tried this). Reflected light is a good idea. The other thing that you can do is to put an IR filter over the LEDs to block out non ir light

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by vet173
    I claculated that for 11x14 you would need a tank 14.5x13.5x2.75. That would use 2 L of chemicals. That is based on the depth of the top of the hanger to top of film in my 8x10 hanger. My tanks cover film and an extra 1/4 in.
    My bad, they use 8 L my brain was thinking twice as much as my 8x10 version.

  10. #20

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    I came up with these xray film hangers http://www.pnwx.com/Accessories/Darkroom/HandTanks/ when I performed a search for film hangers. Has anyone used these shown here with clips as opposed to the standard channel type hanger?

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