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  1. #1

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    Night vision goggles in bound, a little help?

    Ok, I weighed my options, did a little research, bit the bullet and ordered the NVG that were recommended by are humble administrator as well as Ken Lee.

    The thread regarding these seem to stop after Seans light table design http://www.apug.org/forums/showthrea...ght+vision+dbi
    Has there been any design updates regarding the light table?

    Should I order the LED IR light?

    Can any offer any tips or techniques regarding DBI and NVG?

    Thanks,
    Mike A

  2. #2

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    Mike,

    I think you should try it out before you buy anything else. I bought the ATN Viper model (I think that's the one Sean mentions in his thread) and find that it works very well by itself. The built in illuminator seems to put out plenty of IR light. The front lens cap has a tiny hole in it. I usually leave the lens cap on for greater depth of field. The view through the monocle is more dim this way, but I can still see plenty to develop by inspection. I have also developed film with the lens cap off, which provides a much brighter view, but the depth of field is very narrow. I keep it on for the entire development time, sometimes 15 minutes or more, and have noticed no fogging or ill effects. It's really amazing being able to watch the neg develop right before your eye. I bet Sean's light table is even more amazing. Have Fun.

  3. #3
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    i am currently building a new light table for maximum brightness. It will house two of these units http://cgi.ebay.com/140-IR-LED-Infra...QQcmdZViewItem

    both units side by side cover an 8x10 neg from edge to edge. overall the neg is about 4inches above the source. so light source, piece of translucent plastic, then glass tray, then neg. I found the smaller light source in my other thread failed to provide adequate detail as the neg became more dense. I only have 1 half of the current light source at the moment but it's VERY bright so looking forward to getting the other. Still zero fogging on the film from this. Just be sure you do not look at the ir lights with the naked eye, apparently it can blind you..

  4. #4
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    Have an extra battery handy, too. It REALLY sucks when you're developing and the "lights go out," so to speak.
    Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!

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  5. #5

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    I have the same NVG's. I made tanks out of clear acrylic so I can develop 4 at a time semistand. Seans light table is excellent for viewing negs by transmission, but looks like you are limited to doing singles. The built in light sources work just fine. When developing fp-4 in pyrocat, I can get right in and examine for shadow detail with no negative effects. I agree with Mike you have more depth of field, I use mine with the cap off. When close examining development, the area that I am concentrating on works good. Both ways work equally well. I would pick one or the other and stick with it. Switching between the two might vary your decision on when to pull. I turn mine off when the negs are just standing to conserve battery. They will start to dim down a little when batteries start to fade. At a certain point they will just shut down. It happened to me once already. When you notice they are a little dimmer than usual, it is a sign to me to put a battery in my pocket in case I have to change mid process, or just sacrifice the rest of the battery to be on the safe side. Murphys law says they will drop just about decision time. You will wonder how you ever got by without them before. It is that much of an improvement. Other will say you don't need them, and that could be true. With them you might be able to save the ones that you didn't know you had the wrong f-stop or any of the other things that seem to pop up. Now I don't have to keep N, N-, and N+ in seperate boxes. I even develope different films at the same time. Nothing like being able to do fp-4, hp-5, and acros at the same time. Although with acros I have to watch base side, others you can watch emulsion side.
    As Matt said, have fun.
    John

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by vet173
    They will start to dim down a little when batteries start to fade. At a certain point they will just shut down. It happened to me once already. When you notice they are a little dimmer than usual, it is a sign to me to put a battery in my pocket in case I have to change mid process, or just sacrifice the rest of the battery to be on the safe side. Murphys law says they will drop just about decision time.
    This is how it happens... they start to dim and then BAM! no more light. This reminds me that I still need to head out and get a couple of extra batteries.
    Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!

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  7. #7

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    I love mine. I had a dupe neg that got mixed into some other negs. The original neg (timed development) was too contrasty. Since I had the IR device at a later date, when I spotted the dupe neg in the soup I was able to adjust my agitation and pull the film at the perfect time. I wear mine all the time and look at the film even when I'm processing by time. This way, I can learn exactly what to look for.

    By the way, does anyone know the type battery and where to buy for this device? (Sean's) I'm being lazy.

    Thanks

  8. #8

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    I would caution anyone considering Seans option of a high number of IR LED's directly under a glass bottomed tray to do some serious testing before they "assume" that fogging is not a problem. I purchased a 32 LED IR light bank as a complimentary IR light source in my darkroom. I took a sheet of T Max 400 film and in complete darkness taped a strip of black electrical tape down the middle of the film and left the IF bank on about two fto three eet from the film for about 10 minutes and when I developed the film it was fogged all to hell. My conclusion is that when you can see a modest red "glow" from the LED bank there is a potential for a problem that unless you conduct testing on your own you might not even know that it is there. The larger number of LED's, the greater the risk IMHO. When I turn the light bank away from my film and bounce the IR light off of a light wall 6 feet away on the other side of the room I do not have a problem with fogging. Particularly with 400 ASA film DO YOUR OWN TESTING to validate your particular results. One dim point light source from your IR illuminator is probably acceptable but one should make absolutely sure.

    These days I leave the IR illuminator off on my headset and use the remote IR source that is reflected off of a wall. I also have another 24 LED light bank covered by a diffused globe on a foot switch.

    If you unintentionally add base fog to your film it is a steep price to pay and counterproductive. Assume NOTHING. Test your unit with your film and a densitometer (if you have one) and report your results.

  9. #9

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    Michael thanks for the input on the IR LED's, I agree with your point and it only makes sense to test as we all use different materials and have varied conditions.

    John, I'm using good old scheduled 40 grey pipe for my tubes w/caps in semistand but your acrylic tank sounds nice. Do you view your negs through the tank while they develope or do you pull and inspect them at 70% development time? By the way that monster 8x10 enlarger you posted is sweet.

    Thanks for the help guys. I'll buy a battery and try it out before I pay $25.00 shipping for a $37.00 item.

    Good light,
    Mike A

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike A
    Thanks for the help guys. I'll buy a battery and try it out before I pay $25.00 shipping for a $37.00 item.

    Mike A
    Still seems a deal for a source with a wavelength of 850m - unlikely to fog anything

    Cheers,
    Clarence

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