Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 68,749   Posts: 1,483,787   Online: 866
      
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20
  1. #11

    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,416
    I didn't say that. I said the prints treated with glycerol would be more susceptible to fading. It's relative. If you kept your prints in dry environment and free of oxidizing agents that are commonly present in today's polluted air, the image probably has long life. But applying something hygroscopic is not archivally desirable and those who are reasonably knowledgeable in conservation won't recommend it.

  2. #12
    Charles Webb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Colorfull, Canon City Colorado
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,723
    We are getting too deep into this thing, I am saying that up untill the year 2000 a chemical that smelled like glycerin named PakoSol and sold by the Pako Co. was required to be used on prints I delivered to the the U.S. Government, and several other archival agencies. several art museums included. Nothing more! I have not now or have I ever advocated the use of glycerol though I believe at one time it was a comon practice to use on prints to releave the curling problem. I "said it smelled like it" and that is relative! The end!

    Ryuji,
    I think you stuck you nose into something that you only know enough about to try to confuse the issue and are now desperately trying to save face. I did not advise you or anyone else as to what you should or should not do. I stated for "what it was worth" what had been done in the past and my experience dealing with archival agencies when I was dealing and working
    with them. Now, I am off to the Field Museum in Chicago to watch my images fade! Have a great life Ryuji! I will not respond to your future babblings! BTW I now have two names in my ignore list!

    Charlie.............................

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,416
    Charlie clearly didn't get the point from my second post. I simply pointed out that, despite the potentially damaging glycerol treatment, the magnitude of the potential damage can be minimized by controlling storage condition. There is nothing too deep in this.

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Southern California
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    659
    For many years, I put each print face down (for about 20 seconds) into a standard Seal mount press warmed up to operating temperature. The hot-press treatment always worked for me but the press is itself quite large, heavy and somewhat expensive. Be careful with PakoSol- it is very poisonous. I've been told a small drop is enough to kill a person so with my pets and other living creatures around my place, I never bothered to try it.
    "A certain amount of contempt for the material employed to express an idea is indispensable to the purest realization of this idea." Man Ray

  5. #15
    Max Power's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Aylmer, QC
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    598
    Images
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Webb
    For what it is worth!
    The curl was so slight it disapeared when mounted or framed. I can't proove it but I always felt that heat dried prints had a slightly different tone to one that was air dried. Also that the heat dried print done on a double sided "flip dryer" curled more than one that was air dried.
    I use fiberglass screens today and air dry, and have little problem.

    Charlie................
    Charlie, thanks for the advice; it is apprecieated. I have found a markèd difference between air dried and heat dried...Identical prints, same sheet of Ilford MG IV FB 8x10, exposed and developed one after the other. The one dried in the microwave was gorgeous; it was both glossier and, to my untrained eye, had sharper grain. The air dried print was flatter, but lacked punch. That's why I'm thinking that I ought to be looking for a print dryer which will give me that ferrotyped look without being totally warped.

    Cheers,
    Kent
    Max Power, he's the man who's name you'd love to touch! But you mustn't touch! His name sounds good in your ear, but when you say it, you mustn't fear! 'Cause his name can be said by anyone!

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Los Alamos, NM
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,020
    A dryer or a mounting press will help flatten FB paper temporarily. Print flattening solution may help. But locally I am at a fairly high altitude (about 1200m) and the humidity can vary between 1 percent and 99 percent in a couple of hours (it's usually about 35 percent), so nothing works for any length of time. The wrinkles always reappear. The only real solution I've found is to mount the print. For most work, I just use a high quality RC paper, and there are some out there.

  7. #17

    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Moscow, Russia
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    768
    Images
    36
    To flatten our FB prints in absence of ferrotyping drum, we always air-dried them on sheets of gauze, then took the prints, laid them face down on a clean surface, and ironed them a bit through a very slightly dampened gauze on a low setting of household iron. It was always working, and didn't change the tone of the original air-dried print.

    As for this controversial PakoSol stuff - yes, I know that there was some recipe for archival prints, it included some ethyleneglycol, triethanolamine, Tween-80 nonionic detergent, and potassium thiocyanate for silver stabilisation. It was not sold in the USSR, we had to make it from raw chemicals before submitting prints to archives.

    Cheers, Zhenya

  8. #18
    ggriffi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    261
    Images
    4
    I used a print dryer one time for drying and I put the prints face down for a matte finish paper and won't do that again. I am also pretty sure that the plate on mine needs a good cleaning. I do have a blotter book as well, and I am thinking of using a heated pizza stone and weight next time.

    There was a thread here about how to clean the plate that I read but BonAmi that was recommended to clean the plate is not being made anymore.

    g

  9. #19
    Charles Webb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Colorfull, Canon City Colorado
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,723
    Quote Originally Posted by ggriffi
    I do have a blotter book as well, and I am thinking of using a heated pizza stone and weight next time.
    g

    Blotter book? Does any one know if these handy items are still available? I used to buy them in a 50 pack 16x20 inches from Kodak. They were wonderful for air drying prints under weight to keep em flat. They also had a blotter roll that was useful.

    Thanks for the reminder!

    Charlie.................

  10. #20
    Robert Kerwin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Albuquerque, NM, USA
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    206
    Images
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Webb
    Blotter book? Does any one know if these handy items are still available? I used to buy them in a 50 pack 16x20 inches from Kodak. They were wonderful for air drying prints under weight to keep em flat. They also had a blotter roll that was useful.

    Thanks for the reminder!

    Charlie.................
    Are these what you are looking for? The caveat with a blotter book is that you need to be careful that your prints are washed well or you can get fixer contamination. But they are convenient and work well for drying FB.

    - Robert
    "Photograph more, worry less"

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin