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  1. #11

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    I've got an 8x10 monorail I'd like to convert. Every so often I do a little on building a light source but I get side tracked.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Curt
    How many out there have a Beseler color head; that works? Where did the controllers crawl of to? Is there color head that for the Beseler 45 that is reliable and doesn't cost a BMW to buy?

    Curt
    Beseler 45 S is a simple and straightforward workhorse type colorhead.
    The "Minolta-Beseler" and "Computerized" colorheads are tricky to use and difficult and expensive to service. Many of the computerized heads are sold minus the absolutely essential D.A.T.A. Module without which the colorhead is useless. The flashtubes for the Minolta-Beseler haven't been made in twenty years and they were made in Japan. Make sure the fan runs strong on all the colorheads as they often don't work properly.

    Keep in mind though that you don't need a colorhead to make color prints.You can always buy a set of color filters and use the built-in filter drawer on the condenser head.
    "A certain amount of contempt for the material employed to express an idea is indispensable to the purest realization of this idea." Man Ray

  3. #13

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    120v 300w ge elh beseler 45s

    is elh lamp 120v 300w to hot for beseler45s color head? please help. I do not want to burn this head up, it is to expensive to throw away on a $10 lamp. but I have 1 300w in hand and want to make sure I can use it. I have no manual, also does anyone know where I can get a free download on this.

  4. #14

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    Nov 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curt View Post
    I decided to put on a 5X7 cold light head and not use any of the Beseler heads I have. I bought a 5X7 Aristo Cold Light Head for $75 and and have a 210mm and a 180mm Schneider enlarging lens so the rest is easy. I wanted to go to 5x7 enlarging anyway.

    Curt
    Did you have to upgrade the bellows as well for that? I tried mounting a 210mm Rodagon to my 45M and I could barely get the thing to focus. Had to extend the bellows to maximum and it still didn't seem to work well. Also had trouble mounting it because of the protruding back elements.

  5. #15
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    No I scrapped the idea of converting the Beseler 45 to anything larger. I have a Durst 138 5x7 enlarger. For the Beseler enlarger I have a cold light head and I converted one of the Beseler heads to take a 120 Volt halogen bulb with the same specs as the 83 volt bulb that was dedicated to the circuit boards that long since failed. I am using the Beseler right now but will be changing it out with the Durst this Summer. The Durst can be turned into an 8x10 enlarger with a head extension with a slot for a negative carrier and an Aristo cold light on top. Several people here have done just that. Beseler made or makes a conversion to 8x10 but it is or was very expensive, I am not sure about a 5x7 conversion. There are several models too, I have the model with a larger bottom lens stage that has a square mounting plate that the lens board goes on. Some models have a small tapered bellows to the lens stage. Aristo had a Beseler 5x7 head listed but I believe it was for the CB model.
    Everytime I find a film or paper that I like, they discontinue it. - Paul Strand - Aperture monograph on Strand

  6. #16

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    Jan 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZorkiKat View Post
    Don't have a Beseler 45, but got a 23CII with a 30+ year old DGA dichro colour head.
    Works well, though it seems not to be as efficient like the later dichro colour heads. The 300W halogen lamp's output doesn't seem to be fully utilised- a lot is lost in the filters/mixing chamber.

    Jay
    You need a "conical light integrator" which focuses the light so condensors can still be used with the dichro head. I bought mine on ebay for $10. With a 250W bulb, at f11 I get 10 sec average with b&w, 3 sec with colour.
    Rick Jason.
    "I'm still developing"

  7. #17

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    Aug 2010
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    Beseler 45 enlarger dichro color head

    Wow! it was years ago you guys were last discussing these units. I received one of these today as I need to modify to 5x7 right away. Anyway, the bulb in the Dicro45 color head appears burnt. How do you remove it? I have the unit open and removed the main large cylindrical lamphouse (condenser?). But the bulb appears to be in a small black metal box on the right side. No idea how to go further. Help would be appreciated. I have a bushel basket of new 7 inch long negatives to print. Thanks for any help--oh yes, I will probably eventually have to abandon the dicro45 unit anyway and replace with a homemade or Aristo 5x7 lamphouse. But I would like to see this unit working. I hate having things laying around that are broken. Besides I could print up to 4x5 with it.

  8. #18

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    May 2005
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    Check out this thread. Some of the Universal and 45S Beseler heads can have an unpredictable delay in lighting after they receive power.

    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/6...lor-heads.html

    After a lot of trouble, I circumvented this problem by by-passing the internal light control system. No matter; I use a Zone VI compensating enlarging timer which accomplishes the same task.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neil Poulsen View Post
    Check out this thread. Some of the Universal and 45S Beseler heads can have an unpredictable delay in lighting after they receive power.

    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/6...lor-heads.html

    After a lot of trouble, I circumvented this problem by by-passing the internal light control system. No matter; I use a Zone VI compensating enlarging timer which accomplishes the same task.

    After reading everything I could get my hands on I rewired mine and made it usable again. Similarly I use a Sola CVS.
    Everytime I find a film or paper that I like, they discontinue it. - Paul Strand - Aperture monograph on Strand

  10. #20

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    I've got a 45 Dichro Computer head on a 45V-XL with two working MODULE contollers, one new and one used, and an extra chip needed to use the controller. I had to replace the 3 gain dials on the head with something more industrial. The gain dials that zero out the display are very fragile and if you ever have to remove the circuit board chances are you will pop one of them off. Like I did. A friend rewired the contacts so the new 1ohm pot dials stick out the back of the head. I just wish there was a cheaper way of motorizing the lift. If anyone has a suggestions.

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