The 401 bulbs aren't that bad. Assuming they're like the ones in my head. The same bulbs were/are used in some non-photographic devices so they aren't rare.
Thanks for the help!
I'll probably get the monster in a few days, and when I do, I'll be back with more questions....
Anyone have any spare bulbs? Type is EJL 24V, 200W, halogen. Those are rare here
I'll gladly pay reasonable prices and the shipping to Croatia....
I was going to suggest somebody in the UK but a quick glance at few UK sites and the prices are scary.
Thanks, Nick - I just found that site earlier today. I'll have to inquire about the shipping costs, though
Originally Posted by Nick Zentena
One more thing...
Would it be possible to use other lamps/bulbs in MK II 401 (Pavelle) head, besides the EJL 24V/200W?
ELC 24V/250W is a lot cheaper, and easier to obtain... but I'm not sure whether it can be used, since it's 250W, and not 200W.
I guess another option would be to totally rewire the darned thing, using household current (European 220V), and plug it into voltage stabilizer - with appropriate bulb(s).
Another thing occured to me when I saw here on Apug that another member managed to use a Meopta color head on a Durst 138 - albeit using a Durst gizmo ("LAVAKO") - see here.
I already have a Meopta color 3 head on my Magnifax 4, and I'm very pleased with it. If anything, it's even too strong for my uses (I get enlargement times not longer than 10-12 seconds the most on f22, even with ND filter dialed in fully - 2 stops). I even ordered a "weaker" lamp for it - 75W, which will enable me to use printing times of 20 seconds or longer (I hope), at the "working" f-stops - i.e. f8-f11.
Having seen that LAVAKO thingy, I thought that maybe I could hack something myself. The opening of the Meopta color head is something like 10x13 cm, but once you stick a styrofoam 6x9 mixing box in there, you get a maximum of about 11x8 cm light source above the neg. stage.... (see attached pics).
Meopta head uses just one 12V/100W bulb, but I can live with longer printing times.
I could even hack the Meopta Magnifax 4 standard (condensor) head (the one with standard "household" 100W bulb), but I don't have any condensors for Laborator 1000 - it comes with just the color head and no condensors...
Dunno, those hard-to-get bulbs for the Durst are freaking me out
Any suggestions from other DIY-ers?
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You could ask Durst if they'll work. At the very least the size and base needs to be the same. I don't know what would happen to the colour output if you used them. The normal bulbs last quite a while. I think they're rated at 50 hours on average. If you're average exposure is 1 minute that's 3000 prints.
You can mount any head you can figure out how to mount
Read the post by Barry Sherman
But I doubt a smaller head will cover 4x5 if that's your goal. At least not well.
Well, after taking a better look, I know what lies ahead...
Mechanically, it's in good condition - but that goes without saying. Those beasts can be damaged only if run over by a steamroller
But, it must have been sitting in a wet basement for a while - the inside of the color head is rusted (see pics below).
I guess most of it can be fixed - it's not that complicated. With some work and a lot of patience, I hope I'll be able to bring it back to life. Although, looking at it right now, I don't know whether to laugh or cry
It comes with a huge transformer/analyzer combo, with one cable leading to the inside of the lens carrier - and there's a light probe INSIDE the bellows I guess it's meant to be there. Since I don't do color, I'd rather ditch that big analyzer box, but it also contains the transformer for the head...
Still, I guess it's rather compact for a 4x5 enlarger.
The only pleasant surprise so far is the fact that I will be able to use my existing Meopta lensboards
Judging from the condition of the head, my priorities are as follows:
1) Clean the inside of the head and remove as much rust as possible, avoiding any liquid cleaners.
2) Replace frayed cables inside the head - those leading to the lamps.
3) Repair/resolder frayed power and other cables connecting the head to analyzer and the fan power control box.
4) Get new lamps (already ordered).
5) Test everything using the voltmeter before plugging in the new lamps
6) Fabricate a new neg. holder for 4x5 format - I have only 9x12 neg. carrier (see pic. below). Looks simple enough - just two flat plates (perhaps I could even use two pieces of glass?).
In short, there's a lot of work ahead.
I made some carriers out of black mat board.
Can't you use the 9x12 carrier for 4x5? Not that different in image area.
Denis, your set-up seems to be quite different than mine. I have CLS450 head and from memory, 24V/250W bulbs, that go for about $25 on e-bay. I learned there are two types of the light bulbs. The ones with shorter life expectancy (50 hours) are designed for larger light output and are used in enlargers. The long lasting ones are of lower output and are used in disco's . I don't think extra 50W would be a problem, providing the fan system is working properly.
To operate the light bulb, I need an enlarger timer that activates a relay switch placed in the same box as the transfromer. Without the timer connected, only the fan can be activated.
I went through several enlargers in the last year, switching to 4x5 format. I had a Laborator AC901-the same layout as L1200, but with the opening for negatives of maximum 6x9 format (I planned to modify it to 4x5 format), Beseler 45MX, DurstAC800, and decided to keep L1000. The reason is, it is the most compact one and does the job perfectly for my needs. L1000 is NOT as rigid as AC901 and I would say overal built quality is very slightly lower, but it is still a great enlarger. You will have fun. Don't be dishartened with all the work you have to put into it initially. Once fixed, it will last.
You talk about the light sensor in the bellows-this is probably used for automatic exposure control, something like OTF exposure system in SLR cameras. AC901 had the same. The automatic exposure system can be very handy. Once you calibrate your system, you will not need initial test strips anymore. However, of course, you will still need to do fine tuning of individual shots, that's where the fun is.
All the best, JOseph