Seriously consider a dehumidifier. Our darkroom is in an old (?200-year-old) wine cellar built into the side of a hill, and dehumidifying is all but essential.
Roger (www.rogerandfrances.com, where there is a picture of our current darkroom, and a couple of previous ones, in the free 'our darkrooms' module in The Photo School).
"Our darkroom is in an old (?200-year-old) wine cellar......"
Now that's handy!
BTW: The church photo looks much smoother. Of course, it could have been my monitor.<g>
Or my scanning...
Originally Posted by Neal
Huggy, The link David gave you is what you want. I have used the eye bolt, turn buckle system on a Omega DII and now my Durst 138s. What's nice is because of the adjustable tension you can really keep the enlarger in alinement.
I wonder about your bolts for adjusting the height of your table. I did one that way and it was unsteady, so I just built up underneath the legs with blocks tolevel the whole thing. It was/is very solid.
By the way, how do you test for vibration?
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Put my hand on the enlarger to test for vibration. I think I narrowed the problem down to the top sheet of 1" plywood not being sturdy enough. I will use the buckle and hooks method plus bolt it to the wall, after I put another layer of plywood on there.
The bolts are not really an issue. I made a stereo rack like this six years ago, and it holds almost 200 lbs of equipment without moving even a bit (it also has to be extremely sturdy due to the use of a turntable rather than CD player). In fact, it drains vibration to the floor.
Thanks everybody for helping out!
"Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank
"Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman
"...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh
My darkroom is also in a basement, although it is a bit better with regard to water vapour penetration in the summer. I am in southern canada, and my house is about 30 years old. I have renovated the basement and now the exterior walls of the whole basement are insulated and vapour barriered off. The concrete floor is painted/sealed throughout the basement to minimize moisture penetration, and also reduce the number of cavities for dust to settle into. There is a door at the top of the stairs that we keep closed in the summer. The central air conditioning system looks after most high moisture control in the whole house (all ducts supply duct in the basement get closed during A/C season or it gets quite cold down there), and a separate stand alone dehumidifier is set to come on and keep the basement humidity at below 60%RH when it isn't hot enough outside for the A/C system to be running to do the job.
Originally Posted by huggyviking
I have ventilated my darkroom with a heat recovery ventilator as part of the system. The air intake to the darkroom is down low, on the dry side. It traverses a joist space to the outside inlet high on the wall in the hall outside the darkroom. The cavity of that joist space is painted flat black, and there is a cut down furnace filter media piece set behind the inlet grille to cut back on more dust. The high inlet in the hall is there on the principle that most dust settles, and this hall sees little traffic anyways.
The darkroom exhaust is located on the end of the sink, just above the lip, next to where the fixer trays sit when I am doing B&W. The exhaust from this darkroom vent feeds directly into the stale air intake of the HRV.
The door to the darkroom is a pocket door, with swipe gaskets around it, and it sits into a pocket constructed from millwork molding trimmed in swipe gasket like on sliding glass doors, to encourage air to use the inlet filter, not to come in around the door. The pocket door in addition to allowing a narrow hallway, also minimizes the amount of dust that gets stirred up when it is opened.
The sliding door, it pocket, and a step over sill pocket also form the light trap to allow work in the darkroom while the adjacent rec room has all the lights on. This light seal is hard to achieve with a conventional swing opening door, I have learned from past darkroom efforts at different places I have lived.
The fresh air output of the HRV is routed into the cold air return on the household heating system. In the summer the HRV doesn't run at all unless I am in the darkroom. I turn it on when I get into the darkroom, which in the summer is really not all that often. Summer is when mostly I shoot images to work up over the winter, and in the wet spring and fall times
The walls of my darkroom are painted drywall, and the ceiling is 2x2 white painted drop in tiles on a tbar grid. Behind the drop in tiles the bottom of the floor joists have a layer of plastic stapled over them to reduce the amount of microcrud that drops when people walk over the floor upstairs. I could not bring myself to drywall seal up the basement ceiling over the darkroom- to many changes are likely to occur that will need to get in there in the 30+ years that I continue to plan living in this house, since the electrical panel is in the laundry room adjacent to the dark room.
The reason that I took the negative pressure route is that I also store and mix from scratch my b&w and colour chemistry in and over my sink.
When I mix dry chemicals I put a board over the sink right beside the exhaust vent. There is a switch that I have wired and placed next to the exhaust vent to force the HRV into high speed mode. I turn it on when the dry chemicals are being weighed out, and dumped into the mixing bucket that goes onto the magnetic stirrer. The scale goes next to the exhaust, so that any fines stirred up as mixing spoons of chemicals are poured onto weighing paper on the scale go zoom out the exhaust before they can find their way onto every odd surface within the room itself.
Semi annually I open the HRV, and gingerly remove its inlet screens and core. I place them into a garbage bag and take them outside, and rinse them with the hose to clean them. All the while I wear rubber gloves and a mouth and nose particulate screen. I vacuum the drip tray with our central vac hose. The power unit for this vaccuum is in the garage, so there is no vaccuum exhaust to recirculate inside the house. I change and launder my clothes separately immediately after doing this work, since some of the developing agents for colour work are nasty.
I know that storing and mixing chems in the darkroom is against conventional wisdom, but I have small kids, and they know not to go into the room unless I invite them in. In fact it is usually locked.
Hope some of this can guide you with HRV options.
Why a stand? Why not set the enlarger on a counter?
Originally Posted by huggyviking
Attach a platform, upon which the enlarger will rest, to the
wall. If possible use three right angle steel or aluminum joiners.
The attachment area of the shelf underside should be
strengthened with a narrow full width section of
board. Counter sink the attachment bolts
for a clear board area.
Attach legs at a near front location in the same manner
used to attach to the wall. Repeat all the preceding
using a shelf created by joining wall and legs. Think
upside down for the shelf or shelves if you'd like
more than one.
Buy best quality FLAT board for top and shelves and
furniture or finish grade hardwood 1x4s for the two
In addition to all the good ideas already mentioned in this thread, I also work with an 'air sheet' flowing over my trays. Without an air sheet your ventillation system is not as effective as it could be.
Originally Posted by Mike Wilde
refer to this post http://www.apug.org/forums/showthrea...68147#poststop for more information
Correction second paragraph: The right angle
Originally Posted by dancqu
metal attachments at the wall MAY be up or down.
Additional comments: If the wall is of some masonry or
of uneven construction an interface may be a good idea;
metal channel or solid, strong, straight , 1x4s. Attach with
lag screws or bolts. Shim those horizontals for plumb and
straight. Each shelf will need the same treatment for top
to bottom precise construction. Of course at least one
shelf is needed. I recommend that level be established
independent of floor or ceiling.
If you luck out all that's needed is top and shelving, two
legs, and attachment hardware. Dan