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  1. #11
    donbga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobertP
    Don, What green safelight are you using? thanks
    Kodak Wratten #3.
    Don Bryant

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by donbga
    Kodak Wratten #3.
    Don, I take it this is the kodak bullet shaped light that takes the 5 1/2" filter? I think it is 15 watts. How far away from the film is safe with this light? In other words I guess I'm asking you your technique? thanks, Robert.....P.S... The reason I'm asking is that I'm considering doing DBI. I brush develope but when I'm using some of the other older lenses with a studio shutter or a packard the exposure times may not always be exact from one sheet to the other. It would be nice to have that extra control when developing by being able to see what the film is doing. Thanks, Robert

  3. #13
    donbga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobertP
    Don, I take it this is the kodak bullet shaped light that takes the 5 1/2" filter? I think it is 15 watts. How far away from the film is safe with this light? In other words I guess I'm asking you your technique? thanks, Robert.....P.S... The reason I'm asking is that I'm considering doing DBI. I brush develope but when I'm using some of the other older lenses with a studio shutter or a packard the exposure times may not always be exact from one sheet to the other. It would be nice to have that extra control when developing by being able to see what the film is doing. Thanks, Robert
    In my case it is a large wall mounted Kodak safelight about 10x12. The housing has a 15 watt bulb partially tape to reduce intensity mounted about 4 feet away from my development sink. The lamphouse is completely sealed to prevent light leaks. I use a footswitch that requires me to keep it depressed to turn on the lamp.

    It all takes practice and as others have said TMAX 400 is impossible to DBI.

    FWIW, I did DBI for a while and went back to tube processing.

    I used to use the IR night vision thingy in my photo finishing carrer many many moons ago and like most people I found it to be too cumbersome to use. I learned to see with my fingers. But what ever floats ones boat. I'm easy.
    Don Bryant

  4. #14

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    Development by inspection is made easier if the film is first treated in a desensitizing bath since a higher level of illumination can be used for a longer period.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gerald Koch
    Development by inspection is made easier if the film is first treated in a desensitizing bath since a higher level of illumination can be used for a longer period.
    Gerald. I presoak all my film. I don't use Tmax so the greenlight should be no problem. You did mean a water presoak, right? To remove the antihalation dye? thanks
    Last edited by RobertP; 08-28-2006 at 03:16 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  6. #16
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    I use a NVG. I placed an 87C gel filter in a Kodak model A safelight (the bullet shaped one) with a 7.5 watt bulb and bounce it against a white wall about 10 feet from the film. There is plenty of illumination for film holder loading and finding anything in the entire darkroom. There is absolutely no fogging of the film, tested with a densitometer. Granted, the illumination is dim, and probably would not work well for DBI, but for general assistance in the dark, it works great.
    —Eric

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by donbga
    A total waste of money. Just learn how to use a green safelight.
    I've used both, and the green safe light is Fred Flinstone compared to the NVG's as an effective Darkroom tool.

    Mike

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