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  1. #11
    noseoil's Avatar
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    Look up roof crickets. It is a term used for flat roof construction. tim

  2. #12
    david b's Avatar
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    Can 3/4" wood be purchased in 10 foot sheets?

  3. #13
    Loose Gravel's Avatar
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    10' are available. Special order. HEAVY.
    Watch for Loose Gravel

  4. #14
    Loose Gravel's Avatar
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    I'm wondering about the drain. Of course you slant the bottom either by construction or by the legs and the drain is in the low corner. But what about the very very corner. Is there always a little water standing there or do you build up the corner a bit so it drains perfectly.
    Watch for Loose Gravel

  5. #15
    Robert Hall's Avatar
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    I used plywood (oak faced) for my sinks. I have one 16' and one 8' in the next room. I decided to go all out and stained it mahogony then coated it with a couple coats of fiberglass resin. I used a 16 guage nailer to hold the pieces together. 34" wide and 7" deep. I did this for the last sink and they all have been great. I used a router to cut a hole for the drain. I used a plastic floor drain, drew a circle around the outside, then rabbeted a cut to fit the inside. I used silicone to seal it up. I've had them hold water for days, not a problem. You can get a look at the old sink at http://www.roberthall.com/dr I will post images of the new dr when I get the cabinets finished.
    Robert Hall
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    Technology is not a panacea. It alone will not move your art forward. Only through developing your own aesthetic - free from the tools that create it - can you find new dimension to your work.

  6. #16

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    I made mine out of the cheap, not really 3/4", exterior grade, plywood from Home Depo. I used waterproof Tightbond glue on all the joints, and made a paste out of sawdust and glue to make smooth contours on all the joints. I thinned the same glue with water and a little vinegar, and gave multiple coats to the whole thing, using a brush and roller like you would use paint. The first coats need to be thinner so they soak into the wood, gradually use thicker coats. Finally a coat of white paint, and a coat of polyurethane, and this thing will outlast me. It is cheaper than epoxy resin, and no fumes to speak of.

  7. #17

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    Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions !

  8. #18
    david b's Avatar
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    I have a 6 foot fiberglass sink that is too small for what I need.

    So I am going to have a 9 foot sink made and then sprayed with LINE-X.

    This will save me the head ache of painting and sealing myself.

  9. #19

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    darkroom sink

    Unless you need a LOT of space, they sell a laundry tub also we use. Works like a charm! Still working on a stopper, though.
    [SIZE=7][SIZE=3]APUGers do it in the DARK[/SIZE][SIZE=3]![/SIZE][/SIZE] :D

  10. #20
    Monophoto's Avatar
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    I framed my sink using "1 by" d-select pine. The bottom is 1/2" plywood. The bottom slopes toward one end. At the low end, I installed a small stainless steel sink (the kind designed for use in travel trailors).

    The wood was primed and then coated with five applications of two-component epoxy. Four years ago, we move to a new home and I took it along as the foundation of my new darkroom. Decided that it was due a fresh coat of paint - after 20+ years of use.
    Louie

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