Re greasing the transfer gears will usually solve this issue. If the gears are worn out then they need to be replaced with a new set.
Only New style lifts have a second (left hand) port for transfer gears, but note - there is a brass tube that holds the grease and axle in place in the right side port, but not in the left side, which basically means if you run a transfer gear only on the left side, it will chew away very fast along with putting heavy strain on your motor.
PMK - you are most likely missing one (or more) of the main rotation motor mounting screws. Each of the two screws has two functions of holding the lift down in place, as well as holding the motor in place, and thus preventing the shaft from moving under stress, which may also contribute to slipping. Use a 5mm small thread screw from a hardware store, or contact me if you want an "original" overpriced jobo screw and washer.
Looks like I am missing both screws...huh...
So I took the motor head unit cover off and checked how long they need to be and it looks like about 1-1/4" to 1-3/8th". Another question then, the lower right hand screw hole on the main housing is countersunk and yet, the tab on the lift that fits over it does not really employ that at all. So am I just putting a flat washer under each screw and applying moderate torque?
After I get it dialed in, I think it has to go back in storage until I can set it up in a real wet side darkroom. The amount of water wasted in dumping out the temperature bath each time I set it up in our only bathroom is verging on criminal given the extreme drought our region is in. In addition to that, we just don't have room for it.
At least the Beseler motor base rocks nearly as good as the Jobo with the Expert drum...
I am sorry but all these fractionsed numbers do not really mean anything to me, and aside from being kind of funny, are ridiculous if you want to get anything accurate.
In any case, the original Jobo screws are exactly 3CM (thats 30 milimiters, or if an american feels left out here is a fractioned version 3/100 of a meter meter).
That would make them 5X30mm.
The Original Lift mount screws are made of Nylon, and only need to be finger tight, or slightly beyond that.
As for the washers - you just need one small rubber washer, between the lift and control unit housing. The rubber washer should fit in the indent on the control housing and lock the screws in place.
About water - unless you are running a high temp sensitive process like c-41 or E-6, you do not need to fill the trough.
If you want a water jacket for roller lubrication\floatation aid, you can fill just the top red trough and set the dial to the max position.
If the circulation pump is off, so is the heater (if you are running without water its important to make sure its off).
Yes, they are silly numbers, but the correct bolt is a M6 x 30, not the 5mm you had suggested. And yes, I replaced the little rubber O- ring that goes in one of two countersinks...
I ran 6 sheets of TMX just now, temps are nice to keep tight. I also put in a 1,000 ML pre-wet and it did perfect, have 600ML of D76 1:1, it all went well and the film came out beautiful.
I might have to make room for this thing, the level of quality in processing is just in another league. I just found two 2553 drums and I have an idea for water bath reclamation for washes via a simple pump so I am going to work the CPP2 in....
Thanks for your help!
Last edited by PKM-25; 06-11-2012 at 03:13 PM. Click to view previous post history.
If you want to get archival level wash, with minimal waste of water - look for the Jobo 3350 forced turbulence cascade washer, it fits any faucet or tap, and plugs directly in to the drum you are using.
Get as low as 1lmp or less and still get archival wash in 5-10 mins.
I do not have any in stock but they are on ebay every now and again - worth every penny. In fact you can just use the end section and connect it to any hose outlet you might have handy at any location.
Glad to hear its working out for you.
stand corrected on M6.
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