I have three different Expert drums and no sponge.
I don't worry about drying between loads on a multi-load day. After the first load I stand the drum on end and fill each chamber with water. The film then slides in easily. After loading I let the drum stand for 5 minutes while I mix developer. Then I invert and empty the drum, place it on the JObo and it is ready for developer.
[FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]
My experiences have been similar to everyone elses. I recently found a used 3005 that leaked like a sieve so I popped the back off to make the repairs. It's no big deal and it glued back without any problems.
I use the drums on a Beseler base that reverses with a switch. I change directions about every 30 seconds on developer only. The rest I just let it go and make sure it doesn't drift too much and fall off. I LOVE Don's idea of the router gadget and I'm getting one asap. Thanks Don!
I took the advice of many people (Galli, Smoo, Aggie, Robert Hall) and have only used the expert drums to develop my sheet film (about 2 years) so I don't have another point of reference. I don't see myself ever wanting to even think about another way since this is so very easy.
I also don't have a darkroom so combined with a Harrison tent I have the perfect setup for my needs.
Here you go Menacing: http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/order.../speedcon.html
Originally Posted by MenacingTourist
I have the lower priced one. It works great
The bottom plate on my 3005 drum is fixed firmly in place and has 6 small slits about 1" long in it which are along the edges. According to Jobo diagrams, the tube has an outer jacket which is filled with water when the drum rotates. This water comes from the Jobo processor, and it instructs you to fill the processor up to cover the slits and then some.
The outer jacket fills with water and tempers the 5 inner tubes with warm water which flows in and out of the drum as it rotates back and forth.
When I lift the drum, it is so heavy I have to use one hand on the lift and the other on the base of the drum to lift it, and then I have to drain the tank over the sink by holding the drum upright allowing the water from the inner jacket to flow out into the sink.
I then have to refill the tempering well in the processor with extra water to resupply that lost in the 3005 tank.
This would not be the case on Unicolor rollers, but would with a Jobo with the water tempering unit.
The extreme weight of this unit is one reason that Jobo beefed up the strength of the motor and lift.
I don't discount the possibility that there may be several designs out there of the same 3005 tank though.
FWIW, I posted a photo of the inside of a 3010 drum on the LFinfo forum a few weeks back:
At some stage there has been a change made to the 3010 as one of my drums has numbering (in Roman numerals) for each tube on the top plate while the other two do not. I couldn't see any other changes, but then I only took the back of one of the drums.
I would imagine that the the only differences between the 3005 and 3010 are the length, and the ridges in the 3010 that separate the sheets of film.
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PE, this is not my experience of using the expert tanks on a jobo processor. A small amount of water leaks into the inner area (a few 10s of ccs) but hardly enough to temper the inner tubes. I've used the 3005, 3006 and 3010 for both E6 and B&W development with perfect results for the past few years.
Mark- I have bothe 3005 and 3010 drums, and they both take on a fair bit of water, but it only requires a few seconds of draining over the water bath of my CPA to empty the water jacket, so it's no problem. There's enough to help hold the temperature inside the drum to a more constant level, but the drum liner is by no means full.
Originally Posted by markbb
That may be true or not, it is what Jobo says happens. Mine takes up enough water to drop the level in the tempering bath. If I don't drain it directly into the bath, the level drops enough that I need more water next time around.
Draining it into the bath is rather a pain for me as the Jobo sits rather high in the sink, and this means I have to lift the large drum very high to clear the top of the bath. In the sink, it is about 1 ft lower.
Once, I forgot and deluged the floor with about 1 liter of water or so. I only did that once of course. I don't like to work with wet shoes around electrical equipment.
This is on a Web special right now for $18.95 and free shipping. Kind of a no brainer if you ask me
Originally Posted by don sigl
Which is good cause I don't usually use my brain much.
Yes, I intend to get one of those speed regulator devices. I am also struggling with how rig a reversing switch on my Unicolor.
It has an internal reversing switch. The switch is tripped by eccentric cog on the drive gear. I disabled the reversing action by crudely removing the ear on this cog, making it too short to touch the switch. I did this because the Unicolor doesn't go FAR enough to make a full revolution before reversing.
I suppose I could somehow relocate this internal switch to the outside by de-soldering, adding longer wires, cutting a hole in the outside of the case. Ugh. Is there a plug and play way to reverse direction of a motor like this?
I could wait for a Beseler base to come up on EBay. They have a switch you can throw to either reverse or not. I could run in one direction to full revolution and hit the reversing switch to go backwards.
Other ideas? Has anyone permanently rigged a Unicolor or Beseler in a way that gives a full, reversing rotation on a 3005 drum?