Jobo 3005 drum question
I finally broke down and got a 3005 drum. Couple of questions for regular users of this as I bought it used without any instructions.
First, do you 'need' the sponge on the stick to keep it clean? Will anything else work?
Also, the plastic piece on the bottom is kind of loose. Does this have any function?
Last, how does this work internally? I filled it with 1 liter of solution and put it on the Unicolor base (modifed not to change direction) and I hear the liquid sloshing around in there. I opened the unit and 4 of the 5 had a small amount of fluid and the 5th had more. Does the solution actually manage to rotate into each chamber an equal amount, randomly, through each rotation? That's pretty cool engineering.
I am shooting a job on Thursday so will test five sheets tomorrow.
My plastic bottom thingy is kinda loose too so that must be the norm and I use the sponge to "dry" as opposed to "clean" and I guess you could easily rig your own. As far as the internals--my end result is very even every time though I tend to use a tad bit more than "minimum" fluid amounts---I also use a 3010 as well---perfectly even every time !!
Congratulations you'll love it!! Are you the Kodak Master 8x10 user ?
amazingly enough, the development does end up being completely even, even though it would seem to be totally random. Actually, you do want your motor base to be bi-directional - that promotes more even flow of chems through the drum as it rotates. If the drum goes only one direction, you can in theory end up with surge marks on your film from the chems flowing in the same direction all the time. I'm not sure what plastic piece on the bottom you're referring to, but I don't have anything "loose" on either my 3005 or my 3010 drum.
You don't have to have the sponge-on-a-stick, but it makes drying the drum between batches SOOO much easier. I put a couple of folded-up paper towels, the lint-free types, around the sponge, and use it as a plunger to dry the tubes. Works great. Then you don't have to worry about pre-moistening the sponge, or about the sponge getting too damp to absorb water.
I think I have some instructions that I scanned and made a pdf file of. If you'd like I can check when I get home and email them to you.
I think that the thing on the bottom is just a cover. One of mine on a 3004 I have is a bit loose too. I think it can be glued back on if it comes off.
Originally Posted by wilsonneal
Thanks for all the replies.
To answer JosBurke, I am the Kodak Master View shooter. I love everything about it except the funky lensboards. There are times when I want to make a lensboard to try an odd lens, and unlike a Deardorff or other cameras, it's harder with a KMV. It's a terrific camera. Very fast, for me.
To Diane: I would like to see the instructions if it's convenient. I will PM.
To Scott: I modded my Unicolor base because I'd read elsewhere on this board that with a 3005 drum the Unicolor WILL NOT make a full revolution before reversing, and that it was better to continue in one direction. Argggh. If you're right, I've ruined a Unicolor base for nothing. I will have to test on smooth grey subjects and look for uneven development.
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Neal- you may be right about the unicolor not making a full rotation with the 3005 drum- it's a big drum, but not radically larger in diameter than the 3010. Best way to decide is to put a tape marker on the barrel, run it empty, and watch it spin when in bi-directional mode. See if it goes the whole way round or not. If it is close, say 90%+ full rotation, you'd probably be ok. On the CPA/CPP, it goes at least 1 1/2 full rotations before reversing.
Expert drums are designed the way that liquid movement extends in both directions acros and along rotation axis. A flow along the rotation axis will not allow any striking caused by rotation in one direction. Bi-directional bases can produce worse results if not synchronized with full drum rotation. I have bi-directional mode but I am using only one direction and everything is perfect.
I've been rotating in one direction for about 12 years. No problems. It is a custom base for PMK that is a bit slower and stronger.
Nothing rattles on the bottom.
Cleaning stick is not that big of a deal and you can make one from a piece of sponge. I use wrapped in paper towel just to dry sometimes. Usually rinse in cold water and drip dry.
I don't know if you have the pump to open, but the best opening trick I've read is to use a rubber stopper with a hose connected to your water supply. Use your water pressure to open the tank. Fabulous.
I have one of these drums and I use it with a unicolor base. i also use a neat gadget that was meant for slowing rpm on wood routers. I can slow the unicolRr down to a creaP with it. The Unicolor will not provide a full rotation in bidirectional mode. I don't use this mode. I remove the dum every minute and set it back down in the opposite direction This seems to work fine. I get very even developement with Pyrocat.
The sponge thing is not necessary, so long as you can get something in there to clean the tubes out.
I dropped mine once and the plastic cover on the bottom flew off. I haven't bothered to glue it back on and there have not been any detrimental affects . In fact, I think it looks cooler without it.