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  1. #11
    Sparky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,100

    Hey rexp... can we talk??

    Wow. That's a hell of a deal! And I thought I'd gotten a deal on a late model 360 masterpiece for $375!! But anyway - I'd like to know more about what you did. I've got mine all taken apart right now because it's got some superficial corrosion on it. Bitch to take apart those things! Anyway - I'm planning on getting some of the hardware freshly powdercoated. That'll happen in a few months. But at any rate, perhaps you could tell me about the SS relay. Presumably it offers superior reliability..? You're not concerned with it overheating (the chip, that is)? Did you do a rebuild on it? I'm just wondering if there's something I need to watch out for.

    thanks
    Jonathan

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Lincoln, Nebraska
    Shooter
    Med. Format RF
    Posts
    168
    Jonathan - The only real problem with mine was that someone had "repaired" one of the connections to the heater with non-high-temp crimps, which melted. The triac (three wires connected to what looks like a pregnant bolt) had failed, and I think the "poof" from that made the owner think it was worthless. He was happy I paid him $100, I was ecstatic he sold it to me for $100.

    Anyway, I discussed rebuilding the press here
    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum46/13007-tips-re-building-seal-press.html

    and removing the platen here
    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum46/14123-removing-platen-seal-210-commercial-press.html

    I suppose there is some cool method for including the links, but I don't know them.

    The solid state relay is an Omron G3NA-225B-AC100-120, DigiKey number is Z922-ND, $29.45. I am sure people will tell you this is overkill, but it will insure that the thermostat in your press lasts forever. When it comes time to wire things up, if you have questions just let me know. I would suggest using the factory wire unless there are spots which are frayed, or if any of the crimps are turning black and crusty. If you have to replace any wire, make sure you use nickel plated steel wire for all connections to the heating element and the thermostat, along with steel crimps. If you take a piece of the wire with you to the local appliance shop, they can fix you up. Better yet, take the heating element (leave it on the aluminum plate to help protect it from bending) with you and have them smash the crimps. They will have the correct tool.

    Let me know if you have questions, and have the neighbors help when you have to move the beast. Amazing what you can coax people into helping with if you have beer handy.

    rexp
    Those who don't think Photographers have the skills of REAL artists such as painters obviously have not had to spot my prints.

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