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  1. #21
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Of course your controller may have gone bad. I fixed one controller with a garbled screen by replacing the IC indicated in the manuals troubleshooting chart. The ICs in the controller are all in sockets, so no soldering involved. Also, controllers can be purchased on e-bay frequently for cheap when not attached to an enlarger (and therefore no way to know if they work). The Controller I is a little easier to use for B&W multigrade printing.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Omega-D5500-Tran...item563f11fe35

  2. #22

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    OK, I'm having similar issues. (Go figure!) I bought two D5500s from a local photofinisher who claimed they were working 2 years ago when they packed them up. I identified the same rubber wheel problem that can be fixed with aquarium hose.

    I did as instructed, but the dichroic filters fall when they get toward the top of their travel when I hit White. Then the Y channel goes to (---) on the Controller. What am I doing wrong?!? I've had this thing apart a million times now, to no avail! Even when I put it back together with the dichro filters in their highest position, the motors still ran like the devil once I hit white (which is ridiculous because it none of the filters were in the path of the light.)

    Also, in the process I broke one of the IR/heat glass filters. Where can I get a replacement, and are they expensive? Everyone's favorite auction site doesn't have any listed. I'm using the one out of my second unit right now, but need to replace it eventually.

    If this gets expensive or much more of a hassle, I may trash these and go back to my ailing MCR 45.

    HELP! HAHA!

  3. #23
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    It is normal for all the motors to run and grind the rubber wheels after they reach the top in "white" mode. I actually never use this mode (unless setting the mixing box calibration screws).

    If the filters fall then the rubber wheels are not making good contact. Are the springs that force the motor toward the filters installed correctly? Are the replacement rubber wheels big enough in diameter?

    Here are some options for heat and IR absorbing glass: http://www.edmundoptics.com/onlineca...productid=1934

  4. #24

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    Thanks, IC! I really appreciate your quick response. I'll use the white mode sparingly once I get the thing calibrated and functional. (I have yet to get all the filters to zero out at the same time, which seems like a critical step.)

    I might need to go up a size on the tubing, I guess. Are the sections of the tubing supposed to fit down inside the grooves on the motors' posts? The old wheels were longer than that, so I cut them a little longer than the groove and they slop over on the top and bottom. After looking again, that may be part of the derailing problem.

    I have two D5500 units and I'm trying to get one ready to sell, and will keep the other one. I want to make sure the one I sell is in good shape before I let it go (and I want to make sure the one I'm keeping works before I ditch my ancient MCR!) At least the IR glass I broke isn't too expensive!

    Cheers,

    Michael

  5. #25
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Unless you really need the money, you might consider keeping the other as a spare. I have a spare complete head and controller ready to go in case I have a problem during a printing session.

  6. #26

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    I think I came up with a quick solution. I added a small drop of Superglue to the motor shaft, and the tubing wheels seem to be hanging on -- so far! It still won't zero white, but I'm less concerned about that.

    My next project is one of the Controller III boxes I have has the stupid "no fan" error. It doesn't matter which head I plug it into. And the other controller I have works fine on both heads. Sigh. I sure hope deOXit will fix it.

    Thanks again for your help, IC!

    -MD

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