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  1. #11
    Lee L's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Ridgeway View Post
    I'm going to run a cord for the heater through a wall, and plug it into a different circuit. That should do it.
    Totally against code anywhere in the US as far as I'm aware. My electrician charges $50 to wire up a new outlet, plus you'd have to spring for a new breaker or branch from another circuit if you want to be off the same circuit as the enlarger. Save yourself the cost of a fire and a rejected insurance claim and higher subsequent premiums or policy cancellation and just run a new box yourself or pay a licensed electrician to do it, to code.

    Lee

  2. #12
    Scott Ridgeway's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee L View Post
    Save yourself the cost of a fire and a rejected insurance claim and higher subsequent premiums or policy cancellation and just run a new box yourself or pay a licensed electrician to do it, to code.
    Good idea! Will do.

  3. #13
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    Or, consider that kerosene heater.

  4. #14

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    How many amps does your heater draw? How many amps does your enlarger draw? How many for your timer & safe light? Add them up and if its over 20 (or whatever your circuit breaker is rated) then I'd be more concerned about finding a solution (or get a heater that draws less amperage!---OR wear a sweater )

    Another alternative would be to trade in your enlarger for an 8x10 Elwood--heater+enlarger in one package!

  5. #15
    Mike Wilde's Avatar
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    Wife swap - for one that cuts the lawn?

    >The only time I see the light dim in my darkroom is when my yard working wife turns on the electric mower in the Summer. That thing must really draw some juice.

    Oh, in my dreams, would the lawn be cut by my wife.

    And to think that I could be puttering away in the darkroom, while she is doing all the yard work.

    You are a lucky man indeed.

  6. #16
    Jim Jones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by copake_ham View Post
    . . . 2) Consider a portable kerosene heater. The modern models are ignited electrically via a couple of D-cell batteries and once the wick is "cured" burn very cleanly. We often fire up ours at the Copake house in the "tween" seasons (late-Autumn and early-Spring) when we don't find it really necessary to fire up the whole house oil furnace.
    I wouldn't run a kerosene heater in a well-sealed darkroom because of the fumes and the danger.

    An ancient second-hand Raytheon voltage stabilizer has given me flawless service for 20 years. Sola brand voltage stabilizers are encountered more frequently. The simple magnetic amplifier technology in these stabilizers is nearly foolproof.

  7. #17
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Jones View Post
    I wouldn't run a kerosene heater in a well-sealed darkroom because of the fumes and the danger.
    * 2

    The carbon monoxide fumes can really kill you.

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  8. #18

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    Why not just get a voltage stabilizer? Besides other appliances on the same circuit I thought that minor fluctuations were normal? You don't really want to waste paper or get suboptimal results or rewire your house just because you don't feel like getting a simple little box that you can probably pick up for like $50 on ebay, do you?
    The universe is a haunted house. -Coil
    .

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by walter23 View Post
    Why not just get a voltage stabilizer? Besides other appliances on the same circuit I thought that minor fluctuations were normal? You don't really want to waste paper or get suboptimal results or rewire your house just because you don't feel like getting a simple little box that you can probably pick up for like $50 on ebay, do you?
    I was thinking the same thing when reading this thread. I used a Vivek voltage stabilizer when doing color work ($75 new - simple little box). The output was 100 volts (stabilized current), so the enlarger light lost some brightness compared with 120 volts (non-stabilized current). Note that some timers will not work correctly using stabilized current, therefore, be careful how you connect the equipment.
    "Pictures are not incidental frills to a text; they are essences of our distinctive way of knowing." Stephen J. Gould

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