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  1. #11
    Ole
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    Yes, I have thought of mounting the enlarger lens in a shutter. Maybe I can find an old Compur #1 which only works on T?
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  2. #12
    Schlapp's Avatar
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    When I spent a day in the darkroom with Mr Sanderson, he used a cathode tube enlarger with a piece of cardboard to shut the light off the paper and on again. Also he uses a metronome instead of a timer. Seems to work!

  3. #13
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    Hmmm... I was thinking about replacement bulbs last night while trying to sleep. Now seeing this, I think I'll have to try this out when I get a darkroom again. Just the other day, I saw someone somewhere selling older "enlarger shutters". They looked very much like the Packard shutters.
    “Do your work, then step back. The only path to serenity.” - Lao Tzu

  4. #14
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    Somewhere there is a thread on BLB bulbs in which Sandy King mentions measuring the consistency of the light output. He found a good bit of variation over the initial period of time the bulb was on (first minute IIRC). And after that, it varied some but much less. At the time the consideration was for alt process and the conclusion was that the variation after the first minute was not enough to be concerned about with the long exposures.

    In this instance, I wonder if the instant on bulbs have the same kind of light output variation, and I wonder how well the output is stabilized. Someone with the proper measuring apparatus will have to check, I guess.
    juan

  5. #15
    Ole
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    There's quite a bit of variation over the first minute or so with the bulb I'm using, but since it generates very little heat I turn it on while I get ready to print, and leave it on through the whole session. Fortunately I have a lens cap.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  6. #16
    JLP
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    Thanks for the tip Ole, will have to do some experimenting with my 138 now.


    jan

  7. #17

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    If the 300W Opal lamp base for the L138 is the same lamp base thread as the 150W Opal lamp for the Durst M805 and L1200, those 150W Opal lamp replacements are still available in both 230V and 115V versions at the durst on-line shop for about eight euros? Good luck.
    http://www2.durst.it/shop/

  8. #18
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    @Ole,

    Some years later...
    Do you still use this kind of bulbs in your 138, and if so, have you modified the setup since then?
    I’m asking this because I have the same problems getting 200 watt opals.

    Best regards,
    Rob

  9. #19

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    No intention to hi-jack this thread,but down here at The Bottom Of The World,the local auction site (No-not Eb*y) is chocka (means 'Full Of ') of LED lighting heads - they vary in area - from 2x3inches up to 5x7in, claim a variety of color temps,but around 5500 K, some are dimmable, they come with diffusing panels,etc, but are basically an array of leds from sub 100 to several hundreds.
    Seems to me they would make admirable light sources for enlargers..
    And the cost is not frightening - NZ$ 70- 150 ( add about 20% for US$).
    If the bulb in my Kindermann 4x5 enlarger ever 'Pops its Clogs' (dies),I will be giving them a good hard look.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smudger View Post
    No intention to hi-jack this thread,but down here at The Bottom Of The World,the local auction site (No-not Eb*y) is chocka (means 'Full Of ') of LED lighting heads - they vary in area - from 2x3inches up to 5x7in, claim a variety of color temps,but around 5500 K, some are dimmable, they come with diffusing panels,etc, but are basically an array of leds from sub 100 to several hundreds.
    Seems to me they would make admirable light sources for enlargers..
    And the cost is not frightening - NZ$ 70- 150 ( add about 20% for US$).
    If the bulb in my Kindermann 4x5 enlarger ever 'Pops its Clogs' (dies),I will be giving them a good hard look.
    Link?

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