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  1. #1

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    Nikor tank with a loose lid

    I have a Nikor tank with a lid which is loose enough that it tends to come off when I invert it. Needless to say, it also leaks rather seriously. If I put a strip of electrical tape around the lip of the bottom part to make the lid seal better is there any danger that I may contaminate the chemistry?

    I have several other tanks, including a good Nikor, so it is not absolutely essential that I get this one working, but it is such a nice tank that I would like to be able to use it.
    -------------------------------
    Peter Schauss

  2. #2
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I usually use the new plastic Kinderman lids. They seem to work well on all my tanks.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
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  3. #3
    fotch's Avatar
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    I remember that some tanks came with a wide (1 inch?) rubber band that would cover the joint to prevent leaks. I don't remember what brand it was but you could Google a vendor of wide rubber bands for this use.

    Good Luck
    Items for sale or trade at www.Camera35.com

  4. #4
    23mjm's Avatar
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    I to have a tank or two with a loose lid (hey thats what they say about me) I found that the plastic Tundra/Kalt work great.Not an cool as the SS lid but works.The giant rubber band sounds like a good idea--thou---

  5. #5

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    I had luck using a small tack hammer going around the lid tapping on the edge/side of the lid. This actually worked pretty darn well. Just don't go crazy beating on it, you shouldn't be able to see a mark on it when your done.

    Mike

  6. #6

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    Peter, I have gone the wide rubber band route in the past, on a borrowed tank. It works well, and the cost of a bag o' bands from your friendly neighborhood stationary store will almost certainly be cheaper than the cost of the tank, to say nothing of the problems associated with finding an stainless steel tank these days!

    With all due respect to "mikebarger," I wouldn't go beating on an stainless steel tank for any reason. If you know a competent mechanic, machinist or millwright you might consider letting them have a look-see at your problem.

    Something else to consider is: are the tank and lid compatable? I own several Honeywell-Nikor tanks I bought in the 1970's and all of their lids fit and work well with each other; they can all be safely mixed and matched, as required. Recently, I purchased another Honeywell-Nikor tank, a one-reel (35mm) model, which is quite a bit older than my others; I estimate that it was manufactured in the late 1950's or early 1960's. The lid for this small tank will not fit on my newer tanks, and if I put the lid from the one-reeler on any of my 1970's tanks, they leak all over the place! I'm not sure, but it would seem obvious that there was a design change made at Honeywell-Nikor, somewhere along the way.

    Incidentally, none of the tanks show any signs of rust, and in the case of my original two-reeler, they have been in constant use since 1972!

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by David A. Goldfarb View Post
    I usually use the new plastic Kinderman lids. They seem to work well on all my tanks.
    David, was that the Kinderman model 3253 lid $18 or the 9960 $4 ?

    Almost all my tanks leak.. Nikor, even the plastic Patterson etc. I have been using black electrical tape as pschauss does but if I can find a better lid, I will look into it.

    --John

  8. #8

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    I also do auto body work as a hobby, tapping will work fine as long as you are gentle and go slow.

    There is a BIG difference between beating and tapping gently.

    Mike
    Last edited by mikebarger; 01-29-2008 at 09:58 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: typo

  9. #9

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    I got that backwards: the lid from my one-reel tank only fits that tank; the lids from my 1970's tanks will fit the one-reeler, but leak.

    Mike, I defer to your expertise in this area; I believe you are correct when you say gentle tapping would work. Any time I have fixed anything in my workshop or on my car (including body work) gentle tapping is the way to go for fine repairs. However, I have met people who seem to think that a hammer must be swung, full force, always. Sure, there are cases when that is necessary (frozen bolt in bottom of McPherson strut on 1982 VW, with lots of penetrating oil), but in the darkroom, or when I fix my cameras, a light touch will carry the day.

    For me, "beating on" is a synonym for using a hammer...it shouldn't have been taken as suggesting the use of violent force with a hammer. Call it a problem with Canadian English, if you will...

  10. #10
    declark's Avatar
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    I use about two wraps of electrical tape on mine all the time. Mine fit well, not tight, but I'm more afraid I will pick it up or knock it over and expose my film accidentally. Once the tape is on I am pretty confident I won't unintentionally open it until I am all done processing. So far no wierd reactions that I can see with any of the B&W films (Tri-X, T-Max, Pan F, Delta, FP4, HP5) or developers (HC-110 and Rodinol only).

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