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Thread: Sink Depth?

  1. #11

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    Mine in seven in the front and eight in the back (drain and all that). You want it deep enough to contain the splashes. The more important factor is the height. Try to customize it to your height and reach so that you are always comfortable working in it.

  2. #12
    jeroldharter's Avatar
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    4 inches.
    Jerold Harter MD

  3. #13
    MenacingTourist's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input everyone. I know this could easily turn into a case of over-thinking trivial details and nobody wants to see that played out on the forum
    I'm anxious to keep moving on this thing (I will relish my mistakes) and not loose my momentum with the darkroom project. I have prints to make after all.

    Alan.

  4. #14

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    Here's something else to consider. I built mine so I could sit at it using a tall stool - I'm too lazy to stand all the time. That meant that the depth couldn't be too much such that I couldn't fit my knees under it. So - mine is about 6" - 7" deep. Note that the height above the floor is also the same as a counter top on top of some cheap base cabinets(35" high) that I got at Home Depot to use as a side counter. Also consider a piece of foam pipe insulation on the front rim of the sink to rest your elbows.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails darkroom sink.JPG  

  5. #15
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Your sink looks very practical Dan, pretty much ideal.

    Ian

  6. #16

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    Hi Alan !
    For the sink, I've used the design given in the darkroom building books available.
    The sink, once made, is fitted onto a stand which is unusually high in order for me to rest the two arms on a rail at the front.
    By design my sinks are not flat. There is a slope from left to right. The exhaust is at the right hand, at the bottom. the slope from front to back is made with the stand. this way, the sink empties perfectly.
    If you want to have plenty of time for the fiberglass resin to liberate the air bubbles, you should spread it as soon as possible. The heat is making it cure faster and it produce heat when curing. So if you keep it in the mixing vessel, the resin auto accelerate it's cure in an exponantial way. If you spread it on a large surface, the wood and fiberglass tissue will cool it and it will stay liquid as long as it should, letting the bubbles to explode.
    Hope this helps.

  7. #17
    Reinhold's Avatar
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    I just posted some sink design ideas on the ULF forum at:

    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum187/...ink-space.html

    Reinhold

    www.classicBWphoto.com

  8. #18
    brass majestic's Avatar
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    Alan,
    This link my help a little. I personally prefer 8 or 9 inch sides. Mainly because of splashing which can result in stained shirts.
    Russ
    http://hubpages.com/hub/Photography_...TipsTechniques


    http://russmarshallphotographs.net/index.html

  9. #19

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    Quite some years ago I, over a period of a few years,
    worked in a few darkrooms. During those years in those
    labs there were no sinks such as this thread has as subject.
    Sinks were of a size for washing up, mixing chemistry, etc.

    Counters were used; my current has a 1/4 inch rise at
    front with sink on left. For myself, I would not have sink as
    is being considered. An expanse of multi purpose counter
    is my choice. Dan

  10. #20
    MenacingTourist's Avatar
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    Just another thanks to all who voiced opinions. I ended up going with the 8" depth as I had in my original plans. I put the trim molding on this weekend and am now ready to sand/caulk/paint/seal.

    My wife commented that, "it looks like a darkroom sink". She seemed a little suprised but did her best to hide it So I guess I did OK.

    Alan.

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