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  1. #11

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    I use a Tupperware tub, aquarium heater, Beseler motor base, and steel development tanks. It works great. See here: http://www.kryptosinistographer.com/...e-e-6-pro.html

  2. #12
    lomomagix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by amuderick View Post
    I use a Tupperware tub, aquarium heater, Beseler motor base, and steel development tanks. It works great. See here: http://www.kryptosinistographer.com/...e-e-6-pro.html
    Very interesting! I want to know how you maintain the temp in the Tupperware tub. And I suppose that motor base (I've only seen one on pictures) shouldn't be submerged in the bath, right? So how long do you put your tank in the motor base before having to return it in the bath for the proper temp?

  3. #13
    lomomagix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by willem View Post
    I often see processors like the TBE-2 here in the Netherlands. The prices differ a lot I think from what you encounter on ebay. Here they go for about 35 euros. The -semi- and full-automated- types like cpa and cpp and the atl 1000 and atl 1500 are more expensive but within reach of amateurs also. I have bought a atl 1000 for about 300 euros.
    Wow, that's a nice price Willem!

    Okay, to make it simple I guess, would anybody know of an inexpensive water bath with a built-in temp regulator (I'm not very good at DIY's)? But, if that aquarium heater/thermostat turns out to be really simple to set-up, I guess that would be a nice way to go.

  4. #14
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    The heater element is in the bottom of the TBE, therefore it 'mixes' via convection (it works very well BTW), without a motor. An aquarium heater hanging on the side of a container may need some help distributing the heat, as has been pointed out.

  5. #15

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    Water Bath

    There is a company in New Jersey that makes water baths called Photo-Therm. They come in different sizes and prices. Had one of the original models for years (over 25) and when it quit I contacted them and brought it over. Gave me a real good deal on a new one. Found these baths to be very accurate. Another alternative is go to RHDesign, they have a timer that is regulated by the liquid being used (water in a small stainless tank-the same as the developer) and it regulates the time. The hotter the liquid the faster the clock moves, the cooler, the slower. Have a Zone VI timer similar to the RHDesign and have had no problems in getting consistently good negatives.

  6. #16

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    You fill the cooler after it's in place. Don't use the same cooler for food and chemistry. Really don't mix darkroom stuff and food stuff. It's not worth the risk.

    When you open the lid the water starts cooling down. The brick takes awhile to heat up and takes awhile to cool down.

    http://www.wonbrothers.com/product/heater/ICHEATER.htm

    That's the one I was using. 300watts I think. Bigger will react faster then smaller. Even with the heater on the bottom of the cooler I found the pump helped. It sped up the mixing of the solution and helped keep the temps constant around the whole cooler. Plus a small aquarium pump isn't very expensive.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by lomomagix View Post
    Very interesting! Can you be a little more detailed on how I connect each of these parts? And what type of receptacle do you suggest for this?

    The PID controller idea is something I researched heavily but never actually tried. The people using this kind of setup are usually espresso afficiandos (aka coffee snobs) who can tell a difference between one or two degrees of brewing temperature. So if you google pid controller and espresso you can find a lot of info on this- here's a good link detailing the connections.

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