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  1. #11

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    Both of my Kinderman tanks (ss tank, rubber lids) are pretty tight. I have an older one, from the 60's, and my new (well, new for me) one from the 80's. They both hold really well. As suggested above, I depress the center of the lid slightly as I put on the smaller cap after filling, to create a slight "vacuum".

  2. #12

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    No matter what you do, if the tank is inverted it will leak. Them's the breaks. With plastic tanks, I don't invert at all. The agitation stick (twirling rod, whatever you want to call it) works just fine for me. I've never had a problem with uneven development. Can't say the same thing when I tried inversion agitation with plastic tanks. The trick is to be vigorous about it. You can't do this wimpy back and forth thing and expect it to work. Nine or ten back and forth motions in 5 seconds it the way to go. It looks like a top loading washing machine in there, and that's the idea.
    Frank Schifano

  3. #13
    Martin Aislabie's Avatar
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    I second the motion that Jobo tanks are less leaky than Paterson Tanks - but they all weap a bit.

    Burping any tank helps.

    I stand my tanks in a 20x24 inch tray to catch most of the drips and wear a pair of domestic rubber gloves (Marigolds) to keep the dev off my skin (otherwide I smell dev on my skin for days afterwards)

    New tanks and reels are not expensive and your old ones have done good service - retire them with dignity

    Martin

  4. #14
    Ian David's Avatar
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    I use SS tanks (Konica) with rubber lid, which sometimes leak a little. But I would rather have a bit of leakage than risk uneven development. I have a small pile of old tea towels (dish towels for you Americans) which live in the darkroom. I always use one of these when doing my agitation. By the end of a session it is a bit damp. Once I have accumulated a few dirty tea towels, I throw them in the wash. I also generally wear a pair of latex gloves when processing films.

  5. #15
    glaiben's Avatar
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    I like the Jobo tanks for hand inversion for film - if I treat the red rubber membrane caps well, they stay dry. If I manhandle them on or off, I gouge an edge and they're likely to start leaking. My secret to longevity is to depress the center in order to fit the cap, rather than trying to seal an edge first. Would love to hear from others as to their successful remedies.

  6. #16
    Kevin Caulfield's Avatar
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    I second the burping suggestions for the Patersons. That method has served me well for years.

  7. #17
    tiberiustibz's Avatar
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    My new steel tanks have very minimal leaking. The lids fit snugly and the caps snap on tightly. I have used some old ones and I can't say the same for those. AFAIK, all plastic ones leak, at least the ones I've used.

  8. #18
    JDP
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    Many thanks for everyones replies on this. It looks like Jobo or SS tanks are going to suit best.

    Thanks also for the 'burping' suggestion. I tried something simlar, by loosening the screw lid, pushing the cap on, then tightening the lid before inversion. No good! Also all fluids leak out - not just the fixer.

    Stainless steel, Hmm, nice and shiny........

  9. #19

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    I have had good luck with a 40 year old Kinderman plastic tank as well as with two generic stainless/pastic lid tanks from Adorama. Two of the three used Nikor USA tanks that I have are also reasonably leak proof. I use a print drum to do the agitation with the fixer which, of course, requires that the tank be placed on its side. For my two functioning Nikor tanks leakage is minimal as long a the lid is seated well enough that it stays on.
    -------------------------------
    Peter Schauss

  10. #20

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    JDP, Freestyle sells replacement kits for leaky system 4 tanks. I think you get a new lid and funnel for just a few $$$. The problem occurs when the Paterson tanks are stored with the lids in place, they tend to stretch and subsequently leak. I recently retrofitted all my tanks. No leaks.

    -F.

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