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  1. #1
    largeformat pat's Avatar
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    T 12 head on a Durst L184

    G'day,
    It was easier than I thought. I picked a ARISTO T12 head a while ago and wanted to fit it to my early model Durst L184. I first looked and then removed the old light chamber. I then placed some square alloy to space it out. This looked OK.
    I then looked at the 4 bolts at the back of the head (where it connects to the focus and adjust area). I removed to condenser head completely. I then went to the local engineer and had the weld a piece of 70mm x 300mm x 1mm to a piece of 40mm angle, (stainless used throughout). This allowed me to place mounting bolts into the aritso head above the tube area and meant I didn't have to use a wide piece of angle. I placed 4 holes in the back of the angle to allow it to mount where the orginal condenser bolts were. The negative carrier is OK and it looks a heap better. I now will fold up some colourbond steel to fit over the back where the focus rods are. If anybody want the information send me a PM or try me on SYKPE as the same name here (largeformat_pat).
    Hope this helps I took pictures as I went.

  2. #2
    resummerfield's Avatar
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    I also mounted an Aristo T-12 to my Durst L1840. I use this system for the majority of my work, and since the Aristo runs so much cooler and quieter, I much prefer it to the Durst DIchro head.

    At first I placed the Aristo on top of the neg carrier, but I found the Aristo leaked light through it’s case vents. So I installed an empty Durst condenser head and placed the Aristo in the open bottom section. I then fabricated a “door” to the open condenser bay, and now I’m light tight.

    Enjoy your Aristo, I love mine.

  3. #3
    DanielStone's Avatar
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    pat,

    can you post some pics please ?


  4. #4
    resummerfield's Avatar
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    I don’t mean to hijack largeformat pat’s thread, but here are some pics of my conversion…..

    I removed the top section from a Durst condenser head and placed the Aristo in a 12x12 filter drawer and slid the assembly into the open condenser bottom section. To make this assembly light tight, I fabricated a larger aluminum door or front for the filter drawer, and cut pieces of plywood and matt board to fit the open top of the condenser case. These plywood pieces are easily removable, and during long printing sessions I’ll remove them and check for heat buildup. So far I haven't had a problem. The cords thread through a small hole in the condenser shell and out the back through a vent hole.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Aristo1.jpg   Aristo2.jpg  

  5. #5
    largeformat pat's Avatar
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    I have counted the light leaks with small pieces of cloth inside the head. It still allows for the head to breath and cuts down the light leaking



 

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