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  1. #21
    RJS
    RJS is offline

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    You would do well to read Ctein's book Post Exposure or whatever the title is. By light years the best information on enlarging lenses. As far as enlargers go, most I have used/fooled with are a long wy from what they should be. I hahave managed yo make my poor old Beseler so that it is fairly fast and easy to align (in all axes both lens and negative stage) and by the use of masking tape and putty-like stuff get rid of all the light leaks that matter. Otherwise, they all seem pretty much the same (poorly designed and cheaply made) except for a few _ I am guessing - inthe 8 to 10 thousand dollar range. After all, an enlarger is just a projector, and the light source only needs to be very even, which most are. The difference between condensers, diffusion and cold light is vastly exaggerated. It would be very tough to tell a good print made with one source rather than another. Read Ctein,s book and I think you will be enlightened!

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by John Koehrer View Post
    There may be something similar to the time-o-lite where you are?
    Where are you?
    Time-o-lite M59 is a 60 second timer, mechanical and self resetting.
    Gralab 300 is a 60 minute timer and does not reset.
    Gralab 400 is a 60 second self resting like the M59.
    For processing timers many people use kitchen timers available at the local big box store. Look for the programable variety, you're just looking for minutes not milliseconds. Usually you want three steps-dev, stop & fix. Two would do since stop is on the order of a few seconds(15-30).
    Thanks John. Is that the little programmable timer which you can plug onto the wall? I think I have seen it and it's quite cheap.
    When you enlarge, is timer really necessary or can I just use metronome and count it myself? But how do I know how long the enlarger exposure should be? I guess that's where test print comes in?

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by fotch View Post
    The Gralab has an adjustable buzzer to alert you to the finish, otherwise, a quartz wall clock has both minutes and seconds and will work also. Or a stop watch.

    Perhaps an electronic timer from Radio Shack or similar is another alternative.

    The Gralab has glow in the dark numerals which also help if you in the dark rather than using a daylight tank.

    I cannot relate to cost in your situation, in mine, I have owned 2 of them (purchase new), for about 35 years and they work as new still.

    On eBay, in the USA, I think I have seen them sale for less than $20 sometimes. Shipping is extra.
    Yeah, buzzer and glow in the dark numerals are nice features. There are a lot of cheap Gralab timer on eBay but they are all 110V AC, I need 240V

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by RJS View Post
    You would do well to read Ctein's book Post Exposure or whatever the title is. By light years the best information on enlarging lenses. As far as enlargers go, most I have used/fooled with are a long wy from what they should be. I hahave managed yo make my poor old Beseler so that it is fairly fast and easy to align (in all axes both lens and negative stage) and by the use of masking tape and putty-like stuff get rid of all the light leaks that matter. Otherwise, they all seem pretty much the same (poorly designed and cheaply made) except for a few _ I am guessing - inthe 8 to 10 thousand dollar range. After all, an enlarger is just a projector, and the light source only needs to be very even, which most are. The difference between condensers, diffusion and cold light is vastly exaggerated. It would be very tough to tell a good print made with one source rather than another. Read Ctein,s book and I think you will be enlightened!
    I think I have seen that book on Amazon. I will look it up again. Thanks.

  5. #25
    palec's Avatar
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    Ikhwan, there are 2 lenses on IIc (but you already know that). One is 60mm (6cm) Focotar and other is either 95mm Focotar or 100mm V-Elmar or Focotar-II. If you have V-Elmar version, you can easily exchange it for Focomat-II (if you are able to find it). You can find more information here: http://leica-users.org/v31/msg11354.html

    There is German company which maintains some spare parts and upgrades Focomats:
    http://www.kienzle-phototechnik.de/h...iic__vall.html

    They also can exchange the lens mounts to accept modern lenses, although it's quite expensive.
    Contact them for more information.
    Last edited by palec; 09-07-2009 at 01:30 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by palec View Post
    Ikhwan, there are 2 lenses on IIc (but you already know that). One is 60mm (6cm) Focotar and other is either 95mm Focotar or 100mm V-Elmar or Focotar-II. If you have V-Elmar version, you can easily exchange it for Focomat-II (if you are able to find it). You can find more information here: http://leica-users.org/v31/msg11354.html

    There is German company which maintains some spare parts and upgrades Focomats:
    http://www.kienzle-phototechnik.de/h...iic__vall.html

    They also can exchange the lens mounts to accept modern lenses, although it's quite expensive.
    Contact them for more information.
    Whoa! Thanks palec. The ability to use modern lenses on IIc is great news! The site doesn't state how much it will cost tho. But I still hope I can see a comparison with V-Elmar and Schneider. Yes, Focotar II is very hard to find, it's like a myth. I've seen a great demand on this Focotar II lens since early 90s(from reading old forums), why can't Leica just make it again?

  7. #27

    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    If you want a 4x5, any color head machine is a diffusion enlarger. Contrast can be controlled with magenta and yellow filtration.

    My omega D6 chromega does fine work from 35mm to 4x5, although I had to make /modify a 35mm carrier with a glass top. It is easy to allign and it stays that way.

    The D2 also does fine work.

    As far as diffusion vs condenser, a neg developed to print on either with #2 paper will look very close. Diffusion does not hide dust on a neg. how could it without obscuring detail? When working with small neg, a condenser will show a little more prominent grain but the effect is so small that you have to have comparison prints side by side. You can not look at one and say it is diffusion or condenser.
    Taking one neg and varying the paper contrast does not give the same result. You must optimise the development for the enlarger and then put the prints side by side. Then you will be hard put to see the difference.

    All that being said, I use a Focomat Ic for 35mm and the V35 sometimes. For 4x5 usually I pick the D2 over the color head D6. All color is done on the V35 and and Chromega.

    It is all in the lens. That is where the money needs to go. Then a well alligned enlarger. The rest is all your skill.

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