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  1. #21
    Doc W's Avatar
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    Slightly off topic, but I have to share. I have a large darkroom "spillyway," i.e., not a sink that can hold water but a long trough made of wood where I put my trays for printing. It is covered with water resistant paint and last summer, I wanted to make it a little more water resistant so I bought some very serious marine paint. When it came time to do the job, I read the instructions which pointed out that this paint was pretty nasty stuff and should be used only in an extremely well-ventilated environment. Hmmmmm, I thought. My darkroom is ventilated but ... Anyway, I called the manufacturer and told this young guy on the line my situation. He replied, and I am not kidding:

    "You really need to use this like it says, in a well-ventilated place like ... the OCEAN."

  2. #22
    36cm2's Avatar
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    That's ok Doc. I'm installing an ocean in my darkroom. I'm also going to put in an island and have Gilligan and the Skipper take turns agitating my negatives.
    "There is a time and place for all things, the difficulty is to use them only in their proper time and places." -- Robert Henri

  3. #23
    Doc W's Avatar
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    Maybe haul out the longboards and catch a few waves while the prints are drying.

    Now let's see, Ginger or Mary Ann.. Hmmmm

    Sounds excellent to me!

  4. #24
    johnnywalker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul ewins View Post
    For hairline cracks in the Jobo processors and the drums my first choice is a liquid plastic cement of the type used for model aircraft. This is the sort that comes in a bottle and is brushed on, rather than in a tube. The advantage is that it will get drawn into the crack by capillary action and "weld" it shut. They aren't any good for larger gaps since they don't add any new material. The "Testors" plastic cement I use is actually Methyl Ethyl Ketone, while when I was in high school we used Methyl Methacrylate for the same purpose.
    This is my experience also, but the stuff I used was in a tube. I broke the sheet film feeder along the glue line and tried lots of glues, including epoxy. Nothing worked. Finally emailed Freestyle, who contacted Jobo. The answer was model airplane glue. Worked perfectly. Some of the glues I tried worked on other plastics, but not the Jobo. Turns out each type of plastic can have very specific glues.
    If I had been present at the creation, I would have given some useful hints for the better arrangement of the Universe.
    Alfonso the Wise, 1221-1284

  5. #25

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    MEK or Acetone both available from the hardward store. USE outside.

    If the plastic will not melt, then the marine epoxy with a styrene sheet over the crack.

    For a temporary repair, MMM waterproof tape. It will stick to a dry surface and no amount of water will wash it off. I use it over paint chips on a car during winter. Some have been on for years sealing the metal. Get the wide clear. It will not stick to anything already wet.

  6. #26
    Greg Heath's Avatar
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    instant glue fixes

    http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/gpm/gpmgpmr6014.htm

    small cracks with this above...


    then instantly bond it with this...

    //www.hobbylinc.com/htm/hlc/hlc123.htm



    works good on my Developer trays..

    Greg

  7. #27
    largeformat pat's Avatar
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    Try your local hobby shop with model rail products. Walthers sell all over the world.
    What grain............................................. ...............
    Oh sorry, I forgot you don't shoot Large Format
    Large format Pat.

    http://www.largeformatpat.com

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