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  1. #1
    likemarlonbrando's Avatar
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    Print dryer worth using?

    Hey all, been reading around here a lot but not too much posting. I just got a bunch of new (read: old) darkroom gear and had a question about the print dryer. It is a durst RCD 2500 made in West Germany to give you an idea how old it is. It seems to work great put a couple of prints through it and dried perfectly. The problem is the foam on the two bars in the rear is disintegrating to the point of filling the prints with brown dust. is there a way to refoam these bars or get replacement bars. done a lot of searching here and on google and found nothing. I am pretty good with electricity and my roommate is good with mechanics so it might be something i can fix, if anyone has any input it would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Rich

  2. #2

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    Can't tell offhand

    Don't know print drier models...but....sure looks from the model #, it may suit RC prints. Or, it may not.

    I need a drier for my FB prints, but can't imagine any use for an RC drier! Some dry their FB prints on sceens, but I like the two elderly electric driers I have, as it gives me the option of ferrotyping (high glossing) my FB prints. Granted, I do this without ferrotyping solution, but it seems to give good results if I use plenty of water when squeegee-ing and keep the plate clean. Mat prints are a piece of cake.

    My guide to rebuilding equipment is to do as I see fit and suffer or reap the rewards. Do what's necessary to give the results you desire.

    Jo

  3. #3
    likemarlonbrando's Avatar
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    in school i used to put my fiber prints through a RC dryer, it wouldnt dry them all the way but it would give them a good start.

  4. #4

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    Huh!

    RC driers! Wow...I stand "newly aware" now. Only makes sense...minilabs have to have 'em.

    I don't see the urgent need, but I do use a microwave oven

    Jo

  5. #5

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    Colleges often have RC dryers for large student classes. The prints go in soaking wet and emerge only seconds later bone dry. The throughput is amaxing but unless you were running a commercial service printing on RC paper, they are overkill. They take a lot of power and need a few minutes to warm up to operating temp so very expensive for just a few prints. The heat output is large too. I wouldn't like to run one in a small darkroom without having the doors open.

    pentaxuser

  6. #6
    likemarlonbrando's Avatar
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    any tips on the foam?

  7. #7
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by likemarlonbrando View Post
    any tips on the foam?
    Where do you live? That will drive the answers. Post it in your profile so that it shows up when you post.

    There is a bargain for those that display where they live! They can display the city-state-country, city-country, or city-state all for the same amazing price!

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  8. #8

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    Maybe a description of type?

    Open cell. closed cell, density, purpose. Maybe one of them there 1/0 type pictures of the assembly. All that would be handy to determine substitutions or replacements. I'd be glad to give you some input, but ya' get whatcha pay for :o

    Jo

  9. #9
    AgX
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    In case those bars are rollers then putting new foam on in form of a sheet will most possible lead to a bad link in case you make that link axial. There will be a V-shape split. However if you cover the roller in helical turns the linkage would be better.
    Just an idea.

  10. #10
    likemarlonbrando's Avatar
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    ok looks like I need to take this thing apart and take a few pictures. Ill put em up here tomorrow.

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