Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 71,860   Posts: 1,583,151   Online: 828
      
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    third stone from the sun
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    729

    Durst CLS 1000 / Durst CLS 1840 color head schematic

    I'm in the process of installing a second cls 1000 5x7 in my darkroom. Upon visual inspection it appears as though the clear filter at the bottom of the filter assembly is partially melted. I've removed the dichroic reflector and when I zero out the three color channels and the neutral density I can see the clear filter in question. I'm guessing it's a UV filter. But why it's plastic and not glass is beyond me. I want to get a closer look but it does not look like one can access the filter assembly through the top of the head. I'm pretty sure the innards of the cls1000 are essentially the same as the cls1840 so a schematic for either head would be a great help. Anyone have any clues or suggestions?...

  2. #2
    resummerfield's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Alaska
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    1,298
    On my CLS1840 head, the top clear filter is a glass IR filter, then the 3 dicro filters, and on the bottom a clear glass UV filter.

    I think I was able to access and remove the UV filter by first removing the lamp assembly and IR filter, then zeroing the dicro filters, and finally removing 2 thin spring-steel clips, each clip held by 2 screws. Once you start dis-assembly, it will be easier than you first thought.

    Underneath the glass UV filter, my CLS1840 has a glass diffuser. Once you get that far, you might as well clean the diffuser, too.

    Like you mentioned, I can't imagine the UV filter being glass, as it gets pretty hot.

  3. #3
    ic-racer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Midwest USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    6,384
    What Eric wrote....

    Plus, the schematics and shop manual don't cover any of the mechanical elements. It is pretty straight forward as to how things come apart, though.
    I spent some time from the bottom fixing my shutter, but don't recall if the piece in question comes out easier from the top or bottom.

    I checked back and I really did not take many pictures as I was working. Just this one which probably does not help much:


  4. #4
    ic-racer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Midwest USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    6,384
    In this CLS2000 diagram, number 32 represents two infrared absorbing filters and number 33 represents an ultraviolet absorbing filter.


  5. #5

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    third stone from the sun
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    729
    Thanks guys! I was hoping you two would chime in...to be clearer...I was inspecting from the top after having removed the cap and the dichroic reflector. The melted plastic filter in question is under the top clear glass piece and the four adjustable filters. I was peering down inspecting the action of the filters by zeroing them out and it was only after I had retracted all four filters that I noticed something that looks like a melted plastic filter underneath it all. I've yet to power it up and open the shutter so I haven't had a chance to inspect this from below. Am I wrong in thinking that you can approach the filter assembly from the side? It looks as though the cover of the head comes in two after you remove the screws.

    When I borrow into this deeper I'll take post some digital shots. Thanks again for the info!

  6. #6
    ic-racer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Midwest USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    6,384
    I'm putting two and two together here; is the piece that is melted the 'diffuser' that Eric mentions?
    On that CLS2000 diagram and on my unit I don't have a diffuser in that position, so I'm guessing.

    You may be able to carefully lift the actuating lever off the shutter pin and then open the shutter to inspect it from below, rather than doing that with it powered up.
    Last edited by ic-racer; 03-03-2010 at 07:51 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    third stone from the sun
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    729
    Now that I'm in there with a flashlight I can see that what I'm looking at is a broken glass UV filter. I still can't figure out how to get past the metal plate that holds the upright posts for the lamp fixture and the seating flange for the dichroic globe in order to get at the broken UV filter underneath the four filter assembly. There are no visible screw heads. I'm going to light it up and take a picture...

  8. #8
    resummerfield's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Alaska
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    1,298
    Quote Originally Posted by frotog View Post
    .....I still can't figure out how to get past the metal plate that holds the upright posts for the lamp fixture and the seating flange for the dichroic globe in order to get at the broken UV filter underneath the four filter assembly. There are no visible screw heads. I'm going to light it up and take a picture...
    Yes, light it up and look carefully. I don't remember exactly how I dis-assembled it, but it was pretty straight forward. Everything unscrews or unbolts. Just take your time and don't force anything (and take careful notes!).
    Good Luck!

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    third stone from the sun
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    729
    I removed the top half of the case which revealed the four screws holding the lamp assembly in place. After removing the lamp assembly I can now see the four screws that hold the filter assembly in place. It appears as though some sort of grease or flux might have dripped down onto what must be the UV filter. Beneath the UV filter is another piece of glass (diffusion?). It looks corrugated but maybe that's the shutter that I'm seeing (see third picture). I can see how I'm going to get at the broken glass. However, the very bottom piece of glass is being held in place from below. It is intact but covered with this sticky stuff. It looks like I'll have to access it from behind the shutter. I can't figure out how to manually open the shutter. Also, any idea as to where I might find a replacement UV filter?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails cls1000one.jpg   cls1000two.jpg   cls1000three.jpg  

  10. #10
    resummerfield's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Alaska
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    1,298
    Quote Originally Posted by frotog View Post
    …… Beneath the UV filter is another piece of glass (diffusion?). It looks corrugated but maybe that's the shutter that I'm seeing (see third picture). I can see how I'm going to get at the broken glass. However, the very bottom piece of glass is being held in place from below. It is intact but covered with this sticky stuff. It looks like I'll have to access it from behind the shutter. I can't figure out how to manually open the shutter. Also, any idea as to where I might find a replacement UV filter?
    I suspect the broken UV filter is wedged between the diffuser and frame. Try to wiggle the broken piece to remove it.

    The Diffuser is under the UV filter. This is made up of many (15 or so) thin glass rods about 70mm long, which fit, along with a tensioning spring, in a metal frame. Yes, it does look corrugated, but all the glass rods are separate. First, remove the 4 screws holding the metal frame to the chassis. You may need to access these screws, or the nuts, from below (I've attached a picture, looking up from below the head). Then remove this diffuser assembly intact (without opening the metal frame holding all those rods). Try to clean the diffuser assembly without further disassembly.

    But if you must disassemble it, remove 4 very small screws and nuts holding the frame together. Carefully remove the top cover, and then the tensioning spring, and finally the glass rods. When reassembling, place all glass rods in the frame, then the tensioning spring (the point of the spring goes to the outside of the case), and cover all with a thin sheet of paper while carefully holding all in place with the fingers. Then slide the top cover over the paper, being careful not to let the glass rods pop-up out of the frame (remember, they are under tension).

    The shutter motor is attached to a circuit board, and that board is attached to the chassis by 2 screws. Once this assembly is removed, the shutter is just slid out of the way. When you re-install the assembly, the shutter blade should pivot freely and not be bent.

    For a replacement UV filter, try Jens Jensen in Oregon at 800-675-1493 or Stone Mills in Canada at 613-358-5658.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CLS1840c.jpg  
    Last edited by resummerfield; 03-04-2010 at 12:45 PM. Click to view previous post history.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin