Replacing Drum Retaining Latches on the Jobo Lift Unit
1. Remove the 4 countersunk stainless steel screws from the plate that faces towards the right side.
2. Use a small flat-bladed screwdriver to remove the silicone rubber sealant from the center of the cog. It covers the stainless steel screw holding the small cog that drives the drum cog. Digging it out wrecks the silicone plug, so a new one must be made on reassembly.
3. Remove the screw and cog.
4. Remove 1 stainless steel cap screw (flat surface under head) from the side of the lift facing the operator and 2 screws of the same type from the back side. With the gear and screws removed you should be able to separate the center from the tilt unit and pull it just far enough forward (towards the right end of the machine) from the frame to install the new latch.
Reassemble in reverse order paying particular attention to the screw types. The 4 screws in the plate surrounding the drum attachments are countersunk (conical under the heads), while the front and back screws are all flat-bottomed cap screws. Be careful. You’re screwing into PLASTIC—soft and not very strong. Use just enough torque to snug the screws reasonably but don’t try to get them tighter than necessary.
After replacing the drive cog you should replace the silicone rubber sealant over the screw securing the cog. It’s the same sort of colorless material used to seal around the edges of bath tubs, showers, countertops, and so forth. It’s prudent to obtain a several replacement latches so you’ll have them on hand if needed.
I’ve found that a thin film of petrolatum does a great job of reducing friction between the latches and the rotating cog lids and keeps this interface from squealing. It also ensures smooth, quiet operation of the large drive gear where it mates with the smaller drive cog at the back side of the lift unit. A film of petrolatum is also good to lubricate the two metal tubes that the roller carriage slides on. This needs to be reapplied only once in a while.
If you use the correct volume of chemistry (maximum of 250ml for the 3063 20” x 24” drum) then the drum is almost certainly leaking between the lid and the drum. That means the lid isn’t correctly and firmly in place on the end of the tube to make a proper seal. This could also happen at the tube-to-tube joint on a two-piece drum like the 2850 drum for 16” x 20” prints.
It’s also possible that something could be damaged allowing the solution to leak, but this is very unlikely.
Thank you very much for this information. I, for one will use it and keep it on file.
"Print with #3.5 and burn with #1.5." B.J. Confucius
It's epidemic !
I just discovered yesterday one of my ATL-1 lift latch is broke ! Thanks to all for the informations. One more time, I see APUG forums are the place to go before taking my screwdriver out his toolbox.
Thank you Ian. As Jobo fades away, if it does, I think the only way we will keep developing is if people like you are generous with what they have learned. As Bruce did, I will store this away for when I need it. This feels a little F 451ish. I think I better go have morning coffee.
I just fixed mine yesterday, so, here are some pictures of work in progress, to illustrate and complete, if ever needed, Ian's excellent repair method.
For the #2 stage, a little difference, on my ATL-1, the little cog axle is fastened to the cog without stainless steel screw, but with a slot in the axle itself (I don't know of to describe it better in English) :
Stage #4, here is the view of partially removed center, lifted enough to remove and replace broken latch.
In my case, as I haven't any spare parts, I just replaced the broken latch with other from the second upper hose, (for the 3600 expert drum), as I don't use them for the moment. The plastic of mine is obviously begining to show its age, because I broke another latch trying to refasten the whole thing
Another advice, because I made the mistake : when reassembling, beware to check if the selector arm fork for hoses is well engaged in the the transversal axle.
BTW, anybody know where to get spare latches ?
Thanks again, Ian, for your useful recipe and infos
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Parts for the Jobo processors are available in the US from:
1041 S. Carroll Street
Hampstead, Maryland 21074
Telephone: (410) 374-3250
Fax: (410) 374-3184
The original white drum retainers are Jobo part # JP07083.
The newer black retainers are Jobo part # JP92157.
The white # JP07083 retainers are priced at $4.24 each. I don’t know the price of the black ones.
Omega-Satter has a minimum shipping charge of $15. With that in mind it may be better to lobby a dealer like B&H to acquire a stock of these from Omega-Satter that can be sold and shipped more reasonably in small quantities to individual Jobo owners.
But when you live in europe you go to: http://www.fotolaborservice.de
I ordered parts and they were delivered within one week.
From Germany to the netherlands.
Good service and a lot of knowledge.
JOBO thermistor Replacment for CPE2
I have found that my CPE2 thermistor is broken and that i need a new one. Can anyone suggest a cheap alternative to purchase as a replacement?
I have been quoted £90 by a UK supplier (the other two suppliers do not stock JOBO parts anymore), and that was assuming they could get it and the price was about 2 years old!!
Originally Posted by mhulsman
Thanks Ian, for that.
Originally Posted by Ian C
BTW, do you know the difference between the white and black retainers ? Are the newest more strong ?
Thanks Mike for the information. I remember too a Jobo part dealer in Luxembourg, but I can't find the link anymore.
According to the representative at Omega-Satter the newer black retainers “screw in and have wire retainers.” In that case the two different retainer types cannot be interchanged because each version of the lift unit is compatible only with the retainer specifically designed for it.
I expect that the newer version of retainer is likely more durable, but I haven’t examined one and so I don’t know for certain.