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  1. #31
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cj8281 View Post
    Thats cool that you got a 4X5 enlarger. I recently bought a Crown Graphic camera and an Omega DII Enlarger. The enlarger was $75. It has a Bausch and Lomb f4.5 139mm lens. The problem was the lens was frozen at f11. The fix required some carburetor cleaner and a large pair of pliers. f-stop ring is very smooth now.
    Nice 'All American' setup there. Some Kodak film and you are ready for Memorial Day.

  2. #32
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    Steve and Mike it sounds like some real innovation and ingenuity is going on there. It looks very promising. I've harped enough about the absence of a head for my Durst so I'm watching this very carefully.

    Curt
    Everytime I find a film or paper that I like, they discontinue it. - Paul Strand - Aperture monograph on Strand

  3. #33
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ralnphot View Post
    Have you found a lens for it yet? I have an old Liesegang, Dusseldorf - Parastigmat 135mm enlarging lens. I'm not sure of the mount size, but it does have an adapter flange that it screws into. You can have for the price of postage from the USA.
    Thank you very much. I would like to take you up on the offer. Let me know how much the postage is. I can send Paypal if that is convenient to you.

    My postcode is PO33 2SE if you need it to work out postage cost.

    I currently have a 105mm lens which appears to project the whole of the 5x4 frame but until I make a print I will not know how much light falloff there is at the edges. It would be nice to do my tests with a lens designed for 5x4 as this takes another unknown out of the equation.


    Steve.
    Last edited by Steve Smith; 05-30-2010 at 06:22 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  4. #34
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mhulsman View Post
    I tested the Par56 with my 10x10 lightbox but got uneven lighting.
    I am only at the very early stages of experimenting with diffusion - initially with sheets of kitchen roll!

    I have found that the best results so far require a diffusion layer very close to the LEDs and another just above the negative. With just one or the other, I see obvious patches of red, green and blue light. With both diffusers I see a very even white light over the whole of the open area which is actually 5" x 7" despite this being marked as a 5" x 4" enlarger.

    I'm not sure if my PCB is from a PAR 56 or PAR 64 light but mine also has 153 LEDs and looks very similar to yours, if not identical.

    What is your distance from PCB to negative?


    Steve.
    Last edited by Steve Smith; 05-30-2010 at 06:59 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  5. #35
    mhulsman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ic-racer View Post
    Which power supply? EST1000N? I know that some of the power supplies (like my EST2000N) only 'overrun' the fan if the temp in the housing goes above ambient temp. So, my fans shut off as soon as the lamp goes off. It only stays on if I run a bunch of exposures right after another, then it stays on until its cool up there again.

    That LED conversion looks promising, but I would imagine that the heat from 1000watts of LED (if you could ever get that much) would still require the fans
    IC.
    I have got an EST 1000N. The EST2000N does have some thermal sensor.
    I do not think I need 1000W of leds see this Apug thread: http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/5...roic-leds.html
    With about 30 leds, 2 ¾ stops faster than an 1000 watt quartz halogen dichroic.
    --Mike

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