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  1. #1
    George Nova Scotia's Avatar
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    My quest & Fujimoto CP31

    In my quest to return to the dark side after 20 years away I've been picking up all sorts of equipment. An Omega 760, a Besler 45MX with an Ilford Mutilgrade head, and yesterday an Omega D5XL with condenser head and a Fujimoto CP31 processor. A bonus with the D5 was 10 boxes of Ilford Multigrade paper _ i hope its still good.

    Now my plea for help. The CP31 had the parts manuals and the operating manual for the wash dry unit but not the operating manual for the main unit. Search as I might I have not been able to find online a manual for the main unit, either one to download or one for sale. Does any know where I could locate one? Maybe someone could scan one?

    I'd also be interested in any tips of chemicals and set up for B&W that work well with the CP31.

    Thanks in advance

    George
    PS I still have my 23C from a long time ago, I'm really not sure what I'm going to do with all these enlargers, it's become a habit...

  2. #2
    Mike Wilde's Avatar
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    I have the CP31 and the operating manual from the defunct jobo america web site. You have the parts manual. That is something that I do not have, but I am not up on anywhere to get parts anyway, and have had the thing apart in rehabbing it.

    CP31's are getting on, but are well mechanically made machines. Mine I found the digital thermostat for the first tank was kaput. I have moved developer to the second tank and use the first tank for a pre wet, with a thermostatic controller meant for a furnace fan grafted to the heater circuit for the first tank for rough control.

    I have replaced all the electrolytic capacitors on the board in the cp31 three years ago, and the W/D unit about 1 week ago. They dry out and go flaky with age.

    I have found the springs that tension the pinch rollers corrode and break. I replace them with rubber belts of the right length from an electronics parts store.

    Level your machine and fill it with water to verify its opertion before committing more energy to it, particularly if you do not have the means or skill set to fix it up. Never power it without liquids in the tank.

    There is a three pin DIN style plug cable that links the W/D to the main machine. The W/D uses the paper sense on time from the processor to figure how much to pre heat the heater from the data carried on this line.

    Run scrap paper though the machine before committing chemistry to it. Note if there are any dirty rollers or transfer racks, or of the paper hangs up, and fix the problem. I got my machine in a filthy state. Many soaks running dilute tiolet bown cleaner, and wiping with nylon scup pads and many rinses cleaned things up. Since this I regularly risne the machine and run it with water for a minute or so every night then leave it drained dry as a shut down routine.

    The speed dial has a formula. I run 45 second tanks time for RA-4, and this equates to 250 on the speed display. I have never varied from this. It was easier for me to time paper in and out than work out mm/second. Tanks I run at 100F, but find from experimenting that even with the heater controls disconnected the tanks will rise to abiut 74F from latent pump heat. If you are into major electrical repairs, be aware that this is a Japanese machine at its heart, and has a transformer in in to step 120 to 100-110V for its control boards, but runs 120V heater elements

    As to b&w, I run RC, or pre wet fibre and stick it to waste RC to run it though the processor. Rinse the RC carriers if you do this or you get fix carry over into the developer as you recycle the carriers.

    Set the third tank with a film strength rapid fixer. It wil fix a lot of prints, but check it from time to time for silver levels, because if the fix or a similar colur blix silvers out it is hell to scrub from the rollers (I have the experience to say that). At hot film strength you will be fixed in under 30 seconds.;

    The second tank (for me) is develoepr. In find very little carry over to worry about the effect of pH changes in the fix in the next tank, and run wth no stop. The first tank I rn as a pre wet. For RA it washes off the overcoat dye and the developer lasts longer that way. For b&W it pre wets the gelatine and cuts the time needed in the developer.

    I have used Ansco 130 in the cp31 for b&w because it is resistant to oxidation and works well at higher temperatures.

    I use mine mostly for colour, but have used it for b&w. It for me is really overkill unless I am printing a lot of b&w, like more than 20 prints of the same or almost the same image in one sitting.

    PM me if you want the operations manual, and I will run a copy and mail it to you. If you have problems with the machine, don't junk it. I am holidaying in your part of the world this summer, and would be willing to negotiate to buy it as a parts machine for my presently functional one.
    my real name, imagine that.

  3. #3

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    I have one too

    I have a nice CP-31 that I bought in great shape, and will be using for RA4. I have the manuals too if Mike can't provide them for some reason. There may be an online copy somewhere, I'll look around.

    Omega-Satter is supposed to be the parts supplier for these but they haven't replied to my email. I want to get some spare rollers for mine. Fujimoto Japan was very prompt in their email reply but directed me to omega-satter.

    I just got a CP-51 (big brother of 31) with the W/D module, and it's filthy. I need to spend some time to clean it up, I expect that will take a while. Thats' the one I need the rollers for, as it looks like it was never cleaned and a couple of the rubber ones are more of a sponge consistency now rather than rubber.

    Cleaning it up is going to be like the aegean stables I think, a herculean task, but the price was right ($250) so it will be worth it if I can get a couple of spare/new rollers to replace the damaged ones.

    If anyone has CP-51 manuals, I'd appreciate a copy and can pay for postage or scanning. Most of the stuff I can figure out but it's always nice to have factory documentation.

    These are great machines and I feel fortunate to have them available.

    -Ed

  4. #4
    George Nova Scotia's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies. Yes Mike I'd like to get a copy of the manual, I'll send you a PM. I've just scanned the parts manuals.

    Ed the CP51 is online at http://www.jobo.com/jobo_service_ana...al_cp51_00.htm Unfortunately it's not a pdf you can easily download.

    The CP31 I have came from a university lab and seems in very good shape, pretty clean especially for it's age. It was in use up to three months ago and the guy using/selling it offered to help if I ran into trouble. I'd still like to get the operation manual though.

    I'd like to look at doing color, but my first task will be reprinting a lot of contact sheets and reorganizing my past, so to speak. My early filing leaves a bit to be desired. First I'll have to reorganize my basement, got some lumber to move and piles of stuff to sort.

    George

  5. #5

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    just a heads up: someone on ebay is selling a new old stock cp31 for $750 obo.

  6. #6
    George Nova Scotia's Avatar
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    Ed, just a thought. Many, many years ago I used to work in shop where maintained some photo facs machines. They had a stabilization processor as part of the machine. We used to sent the rollers away for re-coating fairly often. Do a search on "rubber roller reconditioning" there seem to be many companies that do this. Might be worth a look.

  7. #7

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    Thanks

    George, thanks for the link on the CP-51 manual.

    I got my CP-31 from a university as well, and it was kept in really nice shape. I wish the CP-51 I just got was that nice but we'll see if it can be restored - hopefully so.

    Thanks for the idea on the recoating of the rubber rollers - good to know. I didn't realize there were places offering that service.

    These are great machines and worth keeping in running order, no question.

    -Ed

  8. #8
    Mike Wilde's Avatar
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    CP-31 operations manual, service parts exploded diagram, and editted sections of the CP-51 manual were all located in thier binder. Finding the binder took a bit of time. I copied it on Saturday and posted it then as well. It should get picked up this afternoon, and might get to you by the end of the week.

    The CP51 stuff gives better advice on maintaining the machines; the cp31 is a smaller machine, and has analog temperture control on tanks two and three, while I think cp51 is just a bigger brother with all digital temp control.

    If anyone has circuit board schematics, they would be handy. I have yet to figure out what the t1/t2 switch in the W/D module does; there seems to also be a handful of chips that output to a multi pinned plug that connects to nothing in my cp31 wash dry module.
    my real name, imagine that.

  9. #9
    George Nova Scotia's Avatar
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    Thanks again Mike, picked up the mail today and there was your package. Always nice to be able to read the manual when all else fails I also picked up a bunch of o rings to replace a couple springs. One was missing and another broke as soon as I touched it.

    You mention the t1/t2 switch, in the WD manual it says that controls the for the heater T1 - 25 min green LED, T2 - 8 min yellow LED. If you are missing the WD operation manual I can send a scan.

    I think I see what you mean by silver deposits in the last tank. The rollers are very shiny and the is a lot of black deposit on the metal. I did find a Kodak pub on cleaning this up, it should help.

  10. #10
    richard ide's Avatar
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    I used to have my rollers recoated by Clarke Roller and Rubber. I think they are in Mississauga.
    Richard

    Why are there no speaker jacks on a stereo camera?



 

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