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  1. #11

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    That's great! I'll take a look when I get home - how do I know if I should be getting a new bulb?

    Also, what would be a good lens for larger prints? I'd like to do at least 8X10 - if not larger.

    So keep the Rollei then? I mean, I got both for almost nothing...

    J

  2. #12
    Mark Fisher's Avatar
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    If the bulb works, it is fine. I always have a spare just because they always fail at the worst time. Personally, I'd recommend getting a better lens sooner than later. An f2.8 50mm lens of any major manufacturer (Rodenstock, Schneider, Nikon, Fuji, Leitz) is a good bet. They are so cheap used now, that you might as well get it now.

  3. #13
    jp498's Avatar
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    If you plan to do MF at some point, you could get a Schneider componon-s 80mm to do both MF and 35mm. Aside from being quality optics, it has a lever to open/close the aperture so you don't have to remember your aperture setting when refocusing wide open. It also has a backlit aperture display.
    For 35mm only, I've only used the 50mm nikkor which is of course nice.

  4. #14

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    Nikor 50mm F4 or F2.8? I have the F4.

    Also, is there a general "rule of thumb" for which lens to use (focal length) for what size prints? I know nothing of chosing the lens for printing or the aperture.

    J

  5. #15
    jp498's Avatar
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    I think my nikkor is the 2.8.

    Every lens manufacturer made their enlarger lenses for certain film sizes. I know schneider is still in existance and has a webpage showing the maximum film size for each of their lenses. I'm sure other people have made such charts as well. In general 50ish mm is for 35mm film. 75-105ishmm is for medium format, 120-180mm is for 4x5", etc... Longer lenses than necessary mean more enlarger height for a given enlargement as they project a narrower beam. a 100mm lens will be twice as far from the paper as a 50mm lens to make an 8x10.

  6. #16

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    Is there any cooling required when using the Rollei type enlarger?

    J

  7. #17
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    HalifaxJ,

    Welcome to APUG.

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  8. #18
    Anscojohn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HalifaxJ View Post
    That's great! I'll take a look when I get home - how do I know if I should be getting a new bulb?

    Also, what would be a good lens for larger prints? I'd like to do at least 8X10 - if not larger.

    So keep the Rollei then? I mean, I got both for almost nothing...

    J
    *************
    Keep them both. But the Rollei is definitely the more capable enlarger.
    John, Mount Vernon, Virginia USA

  9. #19
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HalifaxJ View Post
    Nikor 50mm F4 or F2.8? I have the F4.

    Also, is there a general "rule of thumb" for which lens to use (focal length) for what size prints? I know nothing of chosing the lens for printing or the aperture.

    J
    The Nikkor (two "k" in the lens name vs. one "k" in the enlarger name) 50mm f4 is a 4 element lens and the Nikkor 50mm f2.8 is a six-element lens. In general the six-element lenses out perform the 4 element lenses. The 4 element lenses were the 'economy' line.

    I have two of the 50 f2.8 Nikkors, an older all metal one and a newer one with a plastic ring and illuminated numbers. Both were less than $50.

    Rule of thumb: use the enlarger lens with a focal length close to the diagonal of the film format when enlarging and use an enlarger lens with a focal length close to the diagonal of the print when making reductions.

    150w and up dichroic heads usually require a fan. Smaller wattage dichroic heads can get by with a big heat sink. I'm not sure about your Nikor/Rollei.

  10. #20
    Nicholas Lindan's Avatar
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    The 50/4.0 El Nikkor is capable of performance equal to the 50/2.8. Of course it is possible to get a bad 4.0 and a great 2.8 and conclude the 4.0 is a dog; or to get them the other way round and conclude the 2.8 is an over-rated *&@&&!. My experience is they are both excellent lenses, and unless you need the extra stop of speed - useful for large enlargements and Ilfochromes - the 4.0 will do just fine. There are better things to spend money on. I seem to be the only one with this opinion. OTOH, I do use both lenses.

    In general, the optimum aperture is 2 or 3 stops closed down from full open. I would use the El-Nikkor at f8.0. Open it a stop if you need more light because print times are going over a minute, close it a stop if print times are less than 10 seconds.

    On the enlarger front, I would keep the Nikor. Keep the Omega if you like, but I think you will get better results with the Nikor.

    TTBOMK the Nikor enlargers (also branded as Rollei, Minolta (?) and Honywell and made by LPL in Japan) do not have, or need, fans.

    I would get rid of the accordion bottles, they are a bad idea.
    Last edited by Nicholas Lindan; 07-29-2010 at 10:38 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    DARKROOM AUTOMATION
    f-Stop Timers - Enlarging Meters
    http://www.darkroomautomation.com/da-main.htm

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