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  1. #21

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    Nicely done ! An idea to make the drum/tank drive even more universal (in place of only Jobo magnet coupling) might be to have one driven square shaft with longitudinally adjustable 'wheels' to transfer the rotation and then another, moveable, undriven shaft to provide the other half of the support for the drum/tank. Like many people I had vague ideas about a Jobo replacement, but you have progressed much further !

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Davis View Post
    I have been building a film processor for my darkroom to allow better temperature control than what my Unicolor motor base can provide. Taking a note from Jobo, I use their drums, but everything else is off-the-shelf parts from the hardware store or kitchen supply store.

    The base is a 36x18 inch piece of melamine intended to be a bookshelf. I reinforced it with perforated angle steel and bolts to prevent sagging, then installed leveling feet. The water tank is a stainless steel buffet tray from the kitchen store with a perforated tray to provide a raised surface above the heating element.

    The heater and pump are from a pet store and hold the water steady at 100°F very well. The thermostat on the heater only goes to 92°, but it had a slot in the back for an allen wrench to adjust it, so while it reads 92° on the dial, the actual temperature is 100°F. The pump is a small submersible one for lizard tanks.

    The drum is supported by two stainless steel rods that rest in some of the perforations of the inner tray. The rollers are teflon rod that came with centered holes, I just cut them to length. I am still building the motor section, but it is the guts of a Unicolor base put into a new box, and I have removed one of the large wheels from the axle, then extended the axle and placed a large fender washer on the end to connect to the magnet on the base of the drum. I'll post pictures of that part once I finish it.

    I built this for the challenge, and for the fact that I can easily replace any part without having to hunt down old Jobo parts. My motor may eventually give out, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
    Be careful that the water pump has a maximum temperature allowed, typically 35°C. You're not supposed to go past this limit otherwise the resin insulator inside the pump start to melt with the risk of an electric shock.

  3. #23

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    As a DIY person I have to say that I really like what you have done so far, can't wait to see the finished product. Good luck.

    I know that you are trying to stick with parts that you can use your car to go and get if you need to replace them, but I would like to recommend McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com as a parts source, they have just about everything you might need and generally can have it at your door next day even with ground shipping.
    "Would you like it if someone that painted in oils told you that you were not making portraits because you were using a camera?"
    "Shouldn't it be more about the joy of producing and viewing the photo than what you paid for the camera?"

    Me

  4. #24

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    Bit of an old thread I know, but reading it gave me cause to speculate what would happen if, instead of a reversal taking place, there was an eccentric flange on the drum. After all, Jobo themselves sold a 15xx tank with an extended flange on it to allow use on the older machines. The exact same flange with a wobble, would give a fair old bit of essentially random distribution inside.

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Davis View Post
    I can easily replace any part without having to hunt down old Jobo parts. My motor may eventually give out, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
    Of course that's not a problem anymore as it might have been 3-4 years ago...

    But whatever happened with this project? It seemed to have lots of promise, and was really cool looking too?
    CatLABS of JP
    Darkroom resources and service

    www.catlabs.info | https://www.facebook.com/CatLABS.of.JP | www.jobo-usa.com

  6. #26
    Greg Davis's Avatar
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    Feb 2004
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    It worked fine, but I ended getting a CPA-2 from someone really cheap and have been using that instead. I am using a stepper motor and Arduino board to create a smaller machine without a water bath specifically for b&w as not to burn out my Jobo motor, which I use exclusively for color. This new machine will attach to my Jobo lift for ease in filling and emptying.
    www.gregorytdavis.com

    Did millions of people suddenly disappear? This may have an answer.

    "No one knows that day or hour, not even the angels in heaven, nor the Son, but only the Father." -Matthew 24:36

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Davis View Post
    as not to burn out my Jobo motor, which I use exclusively for color.
    Even if that happens, that should not be a problem, we have spare motors for all Jobo machines...

    Your new project also sounds interesting - i am looking forward to seeing some photos of that.
    CatLABS of JP
    Darkroom resources and service

    www.catlabs.info | https://www.facebook.com/CatLABS.of.JP | www.jobo-usa.com

  8. #28

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    I am thinking of having the motor driving a rubber pinch roller pushing the drum down from top. No need for magnetic coupling and also keep the drum on the rods.

  9. #29

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    Paterson's version does something similar - the tube rides on a support drive roller at one end.
    If starting from scratch, this is what I'd do...

    Have a tank - above it a drive unit; floating in the water, a cylinder. The drive unit folds down and straddles the tank and the cylinder floats up under it with positive buoyancy, thus doing away with support bearings, seals, leaks, etc.
    So simple.

  10. #30

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    Excellent idea. I wonder if the Jobo drum is completely water tight so I can have it almost totally submerged?

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