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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by hadeer View Post
    ... but any transformer with a capacity of 100 Watts @ 12 V will do.
    And I found pretty much the same statement being made here:
    http://photo.net/black-and-white-pho...g-forum/00WTTA

    So I went exploring and returned home with the NL48 low voltage lighting transformer from Maplins. The guy in the store seemed pretty sure it would do the trick (!?) - I wouldn't normally trust these folks but on this occassion I was willing to go with it. Though it's a good idea buying a cheap Axomat for the transformer, especially if it's bundled with darkroom kit. That might be Plan B.

    I don't have a bulb so I can't yet confirm that the NL48 works so I'll be back with an update ....

    but again, thanks for all your suggestions and advice, it's been great.

  2. #12
    hadeer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by perkeleellinen
    There's actually a TR100 on ebay now with a £50 BIN, but a better way would be to buy a whole enlarger to get the unit, like the Axomat 5 which is selling for £20.;
    It would be a good way to buy another complete set and just use the transformer, but any transformer with a capacity of 100 Watts @ 12 V will do.
    Have you seen the light..?

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinzone View Post
    There is a wire that comes directly out of the Colour 3 head (which houses the bulb). I fitted a plug and stuck it in the wall! I'm no electrician so my skills in this area run very short. UK mains supply is 240v generally. Hence me thinking a transformer to step from 12v.
    Ouch!
    But, some good, in that if you can connect a plug then you can probably get by with just about any 100W 12V power supply by just matching up with a new plug or wiring it directly which I see you are doing. I looked up that transformer you hot from Maplins and it looks like that is going to work fine.
    Last edited by ic-racer; 01-26-2011 at 04:51 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #14

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    Hi All
    I just want to confirm that the low voltage lighting transformer from Maplin (mentioned above) appears to have done the trick. I removed the Colour 3 head from the stand, wired it up, plugged it in and had it sat on the floor for 10 minutes whilst I played around with the filters. All seemed well. So, anyone reading this in the same predicament - there's a solution.

    Now I got to go clean those dead spiders and caked on dust off the glass in the negative holder. Actually I'm hoping the glass is removable but it does look fixed. Anyway, that's another thread! Once again, thanks to everyone for chipping in. A great forum.

  5. #15
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Good work!

  6. #16
    tih
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    I've got an Opemus 6 with Color 3 head, too, and am very happy with it. After I bought it, used, from another hobbyist, I purchased additional bits and pieces for it from RK Photographic, and I don't hesitate to recommend them to others. Check their Meopta inventory at http://www.thedarkroom.co.uk/product...s.php?brand=22

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by pinzone View Post
    ...Now I got to go clean those dead spiders and caked on dust off the glass in the negative holder. Actually I'm hoping the glass is removable but it does look fixed...
    Yes, the glass is removable. Both parts (upper/lower) of the carrier have a plate in natural metal finish, which is held in place with two small screws. If you remove them, then you can remove the plate and so you can remove the glass. So, you can replace the glasses with any insert, or spare glass if yours is damaged. Keep in mind that the upper glass is anti newton ring glass, so cleaning it is probably difficult.

    Two more interesting bits about the carrier:

    1) The lower half has two "pins" that slide forward - backwards (toward the hinges). When they're in the fully forward position, they're set for 135 film, so you only need to put the film strip against the pins and move it left/right to align the frame to the mask. Likewise, when the pins are at the "backwards" position (close to the hinges), they're set for 120 film. If you have misplaced the negative in the carrier, you don't need to take it off the enlarger. Just lift the front handle of the carrier until it clicks and it will stay there. Realign the film strip, then gently push the silver lever at the handle, which releases the upper part of the carrier and puts it back in contact with the lower half.

    2) There's a focussing aid at the lower half of the carrier. Turn the enlarger on with the carrier in place and start pulling it. At some point (about half out), it you'll see two lines projected on the easel. Use the focusing knob until the lines are aligned and so you have focused the enlarger, but this only works with a glass carrier. I've tried it with my glassless carrier, but it doesn't work.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Anon Ymous View Post

    Two more interesting bits about the carrier:
    Great tips. This sort of thing takes ages to learn/discover. I got home from worked plugged it in, fiddled around for 5 minutes and I'd got these little tricks figured out. If it works correctly then can I assume that the focus alignment thing does away with the need for a micro-focus. I doubt it but I'll ask the question. I have to say this is a really nice enlarger, solidly built and some decent features too.

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