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  1. #11
    Athiril's Avatar
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    Feb 2009
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    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
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    Rodinal, fixer, photoflo, developing tank+reels, change bag, 10ml lab glass graduated cylinder, 100ml lab glass graduated cylinder, 500ml lab glass beaker.

    The glass should be very cheap, $3-$4 a piece, and the graduates are much more accurate.

    Rodinal, fixer, and photoflo are very cheap.


    I use patterson universal tank.. 2 reels.. they do 35mm, 127 (iirc) and 120, as they collapse/change sizes, easy to load if theyre dry, pita if theyre a little wet, becomes easier again (not as easy as dry) if theyre saturated wet.


    If you only need to show your photos at web size display online, then a cheap flatbed will do, otherwise a CoolScan, or Plustek, or Minolta scanner, is a must etc. Although, if you're getting $ for something after someone looks at something, you can send the neg away for a dedicated, imacon, or drum scan anyway. Not an issue for here, but good to point out for people instead of sending them away when money and commercial money may be involved.

    Again not an issue.. but to point you in the right direction.. the real resolution of my V500 is 1200-1300 dpi, which is 23.6-25.6 lp/mm, or if you want digital terms, a sharp 2mp dSLR image for 35mm, and 8.3 for 6x7cm. But theyre for web images only.. then its not an issue. FTR PlusTek announced a dedicated 120 scanner recently.. not on sale yet iirc.

    Again FTR, I do think it is worth you shooting film as opposed to digital only in a commercial sense, for the highlight retention you get with negatives, choice of exposure, which you can overexpose, retain highlights, as opposed to having to expose carefully on digital and drag shadows way up in post that may just not be sharp and covered in noise depending on how much you need to pull up..


    eg: My Tri-X 400 in 35mm yesterday came out nice, yesterday was pretty harsh in the city.. 5-6 stops of difference between the midtones on the sun light, and in the adjacent shade, let alone highlights in the sun to blacks in the shade.. all came out on the neg simply at EI 400 and normal processing
    Last edited by Athiril; 02-19-2011 at 09:03 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #12
    Coffeehound's Avatar
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    Nov 2010
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    To add to the wise words; check out the local Wal*Mart and see if they are still doing wet film developing ( Here in MO they (store staff) tell me that within the next 12 to 15 months film developing will end). I can drop off any C-41 process film and get it back in one hour. I do Develop only and CD and the cost is less than 6$ US including sales tax. Not the best scans but still on CD and something like 2MB size files.
    I also have a home scanner for 35mm from IonAudio (www.ionaudio.com) called Slides to PC. This does 5 mega-pixel images in TIFF or JPG. Does slides, color and B&W. Shows new on their site for $89 or Refurbished for $50. I got mine though Amazon for something near these prices. Still have not found a affordable 6X6 scanner.... still searching for that!

    Jackie
    Cameras.
    Nikon F2a (semi-retired), Nikon 28mm, Sigma 500mm f8, Vivitar Series I 70-210 zoom
    2 Nikon N90s one 70 - 300 AF Macro, one 100 - 300 AF)
    Nikon N90 w/ 100 - 300 AF lens, 24-50 AF, 35-70 AF
    Mamiya C220 80mm f2.8, 180mm f4.5, 135mm f4.5, 65mm f6.5

    Three Sony Mavica Digital cameras, and a Fuji FinePix S2800HD I got after the partner died.. HP Photosmart E327
    and some Bushnell Binoculars with digit camera built in.
    Omega Super Chromega C-700 6X7 enlarger with 50mm and 80mm lens

  3. #13
    polyglot's Avatar
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    As people have said, B&W dev is cheap and easy. There are a bazillion tutorials for it and 30s of searching will find them for you.

    Scanning MF negs properly is expensive - either you're paying $10s per roll for a lab to do it, or you're paying $700-2000 for a MF film scanner and spending probably an hour per roll. If you're not doing this commercially and want very high quality scans on the cheap, you should look at putting together a darkroom and scanning your prints on a cheap flatbed. That way, you can use a $150 scanner and get about 1000-1200dpi from 8x10" paper, which is as good as you can pull a 4000dpi film scanner. It does mean spending $100 on an enlarger, $1-5/frame and some labour on wet printing, but you will get a better result overall with less capital but much higher labour investment.

  4. #14

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    When I started doing my own processing and scanning I wasn't really looking to do it on the cheep, I was more interested in doing it quickly and with more control I had planned on spending about $500.

    A trip to the local photo shop that was close to a college that still has a wet darkroom class got me all the wet equipment I needed. I walked out with a Stainless steel tank, 3 reels (1 for 120, and 2 for 25mm), a bag of D-76, a bag of fixer, a bottle of PhotoFlo (that I paid way too much for) and a darkbag for about $65, it was a student starter kit special. Then I went on Amazon and bought a Canoscan 8800f for about $150. I mixed the chemicals in some old water jugs and I was good to go. I have upgraded my chemical storage jugs to brown glass (for free) but all the rest of the gear is still great.

    Build your setup over several weeks and that way you can hunt down the best bargains. The best advice, if you plan on buying on ebay do not get involved in bidding wars, that is the surest way to pay too much. Use Amazon.com to figure out what things should cost, then look for bargains, they are out there.
    "Would you like it if someone that painted in oils told you that you were not making portraits because you were using a camera?"
    "Shouldn't it be more about the joy of producing and viewing the photo than what you paid for the camera?"

    Me

  5. #15

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    I use Nikkors for 50 years and still have the originals. They must be original Nikkors, not look alikes. People have trouble loading them, but it is like a bicycle, once you get it, you get it.

    Best to drop film into a full tank of developer with larger tanks. Single tank, does not matter much.

    Stay away from stainless with black plastic caps. They split with time and when you turn on the lights, the film is ruined. Cheap to buy though.

    Paterson Super System 4 is nearly fool proof. No filling errors. easy load, inversion is perfect because there is lots of empty space in the cap.

    Used ones come without parts sometimes like the twiddle stick which is for first agitaion ONLY. After that invert. Store with cap off so it does not stretch and leak. Takes 300 ml which is an odd amount. Stainless takes 240 or 8 oz. There are no 300 ml bottles for developer storage and you should store in one time use bottles to keep air out. Do not use Photo Flow or other wetting agent if film is on the plastic reel. It does not wash off and will eventually render the reel sticky and useless. You can`t see it so be carefull of used. Same with stretched caps.

    Water and air filters and a clean dust free room or drying cabinet are the key to clean negs. Dirt makes spotting a nightmare and it is easier prevented than cured.

    Never squeegee film. You can not squeegee off debris and you will sooner or later scratch film if it has debris on it.

  6. #16

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    you can pick yourself up a unicolor processor and film drum
    for maybe 50$, developer and fixer are inexpensive.
    otherwise metal +plastic reels and graduates people sell here in the classifieds ...
    and they are pretty inexpensive ...
    there are lots of different choices for developers, settle on one and use it ..

    good luck !
    john
    silver magnets, trickle tanks sold
    artwork often times sold for charity
    PM me for details

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