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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by FotoRR View Post
    Folks- Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, I have used the split printing method. For production work this method is time consuming-much on/off of switches. Sadly there doesn't seem to be a single method of producing various grades. Trial an error just to get in the "ballpark"! Too many choices with not a lot of direction.
    Split printing is the best way to use this enlarger, as long as you have the Zone VI Compensating Enlarger Timer. I suppose it can be used without, but then you are at the mercy of the inconsistencies of a cold light tube.

    Even with the compensating timer, I would not use this head except for split printing. The problem is that the green and blue aren't separately controlled on the Type I as they are on the Type II. The compensating timer will only "control" both light outputs at the same time. So, one might obtain a "consistent" overall exposure with the compensating timer, each head can still vary on it's own and together produce different contrasts over time at the same settings.

    However, using the green and blue tubes separately, as in split printing, each tube becomes separately controlled by the single compensating timer. So, both consistent exposure and consistent contrast can be obtained.

    I know this, because I have the Type I. I would get what I wanted in a print, come back later to reporduce the print, and the contrast was wrong. Printing notes obviously didn't help. I don't like split printing, so I adapted a different head to this enlarger.

  2. #12

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    Neil Poulsen stated--" I don't like split printing, so I adapted a different head to this enlarger" Indeed, what head did you use??
    Richard Rodgers

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by FotoRR View Post
    Neil Poulsen stated--" I don't like split printing, so I adapted a different head to this enlarger" Indeed, what head did you use??
    Richard Rodgers
    I have the Beseler adaptor that was made for this enlarger. So, I use a 45S color head.

    I found an extra sensor for the Zone VI compensating timer on EBay. I've installed it in the head to work with this timer. This was necessary, because the head had an unpredictable delay after it was turned on. I bypassed the circuitry that caused the delay and use the compensating timer to obtain consistent exposures.

  4. #14

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    Sep 2002
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    Neil Poulsen-
    Thank you for your response w.r.t. the head used. This sounds a bit beyond my ability to deal with. While adapt in a darkroom, my electronic skills are nil!

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by FotoRR View Post
    Neil Poulsen-
    Thank you for your response w.r.t. the head used. This sounds a bit beyond my ability to deal with. While adapt in a darkroom, my electronic skills are nil!
    There were some electronics, but very little. It was a matter of tracing the two wires from the light bulb, cutting them, and connecting them to the AC power wall plug, almost.

    I say almost, because it was necessary to splice in the proper rectifier that turns the 120 volt AC power to the 83 volts that's needed by the bulb. It gets spliced into one of the two AC wires, much like splicing in a switch for a lamp.

    See the following thread for more detail:

    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/6...lor-heads.html

    In making this alteration, one splices out the controller that's supposed to provide a consistent light source. But, this controller had clearly failed on my 45S head. (They often do.)

    I added the Zone VI compensating timer sensor to this head to replace the controller. But I wonder if the light wouldn't be fairly consistent, even without compensating timer? I'm thinking that incandescent would be at least as consistent as a cold light, at least for black and white enlarging? Perhaps there's a problem with the aging, quartz-halogen light bulb, whose characteristics may change over time.
    Last edited by Neil Poulsen; 03-20-2011 at 07:31 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  6. #16

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    Jan 2005
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    Usually equal amounts of green/blue will give a #2 grade. Max blue and zero green will be 4 or 5. Test. Then split the green reduction in equal steps to get from 2 to max.

    That or buy a pack of #2 and match it.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronald Moravec View Post
    Usually equal amounts of green/blue will give a #2 grade.
    Not necessarily, time for each may vary; or do you know for sure?
    "There are a great many things I am in doubt about at the moment, and I should consider myself favoured if you would kindly enlighten me. Signed, Doubtful, off to Canada." (BJP 1914).

    Regards
    Bill

  8. #18

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    Well I have been motivated to try to calibrate for grades and I think my variable dials are not working. All I get is full green and full blue. Max blue and min green give the same print as min blue and max green making contact prints with a 4x5 stouffer scale.
    Back to split printing for me.
    "There are a great many things I am in doubt about at the moment, and I should consider myself favoured if you would kindly enlighten me. Signed, Doubtful, off to Canada." (BJP 1914).

    Regards
    Bill

  9. #19
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    So when you turn the knob the green and blue lamps illuminate at maximum intensity or are off with no in-between?

  10. #20

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    Exactly
    "There are a great many things I am in doubt about at the moment, and I should consider myself favoured if you would kindly enlighten me. Signed, Doubtful, off to Canada." (BJP 1914).

    Regards
    Bill

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