Big cameras were all that people had in the old days
Originally Posted by Luseboy
For (iv), I would suggest you buy the 2 reels version, in the event you need to develop 2 rolls at the same time. Also you can also use it to develop 120 roll film, if you move up to medium format, which you will, if you hang around here for any length of time
Last edited by chioque; 04-17-2011 at 11:25 PM. Click to view previous post history.
I'll be a rebel and state that developing C41 films is much easier than developing black and white. There are no real variables, all is standard process. All you have to do is keep the temperature right. I've done it for at least a hundred rolls now, and it's dead easy to do C41 at home. I highly recommend the Rollei kits.
"Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank
"Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman
"...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh
The red light is good for nothing with color printing, or for any processing of color films or standard (i.e. panchromatic) black and white films. Save five bucks and pass on it unless you are doing black and white printing. It is for black and white printing only, or working with orthochromatic films (and even then, I would filter it through a bona fide red filter before trusting the manufacturer's coating on the bulb).
I would get a better thermometer (Paterson, about $30) and offset the cost by getting a used stainless steel tank and reels, and by using juice bottles for your chemicals (PETE plastic in useful sizes, like 16/32 oz. or 500mL/1L). I also wouldn't bother getting a tank that will not hold at least two rolls of 35mm film. I can count on one hand the times that I have had only one roll of 35mm to develop, and had to develop it NOW, before waiting for another roll to develop along with it.
As for getting started, a Rollei or Photographer's Formulary color neg processing kit is a good idea IMO. But they are very expensive. Once you have the process down and are constantly developing film, you can switch to much cheaper bulk chemicals.
B/W is easier in some ways and C-41 is easier in some ways. I would say b/w is easier for a rank beginner with no experience ever processing film. But for someone who already knows how to process seamlessly, I think C-41 is easier. It's a standardized process, and there are only four chemicals and two short washes (all of which are mixed as working solutions from the very beginning). With black and white, I use five chemicals (all but the stop bath and fixer have to be made into working solutions before the developing session), two short washes, and one full wash...and I pay nearly just as much attention to keeping a constant temperature as I do with color.
Last edited by 2F/2F; 04-18-2011 at 12:06 AM. Click to view previous post history.
"Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."
- Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)
#1: No they are hard to clean and will leak, believe me I learned the hard way.
Originally Posted by Man from moon
#2: The light is no good for color.
#3: The glass is fine but comes around a bit slow and is subject to breaking, a dial is better.
#4: Nothing wrong with that tank, should work perfectly fine.
Ask more questions....
Everytime I find a film or paper that I like, they discontinue it. - Paul Strand - Aperture monograph on Strand
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
Thanks to all
Now, I have a lot of b&w c-41 films
There is no good lab in my village where I live
in the Future
I Will learn How do I deal with Chemistry like id-11 , Rapid Fixer and Ilfostop Stop Bath for my ilford films
But I find some difficulty
Especially in the instructions Manual , steps for maxing , Required temperature
And my English is very bad
I haven't done any C41 development, but I have heard the color process is more temperature sensitive. I would buy a color thermometer, which has higher degree of accuracy. I don't think they comes in dial forms.
The air-vac bottle - I have it and love it. I don't have a leak yet. I use one bottle for one type of chemical/developer, so, haven't had problem cleaning. I don't see how it would be hard to clean, unless you are trying to use one that had fixer in it for developer. For that, you can always get the blue cleaner from Freestyle, which should clean pretty much anything off.
Red light - no point at all, unless printing with certain paper. Get a changing bag instead.
Patterson Reel - Yes, get a 2 reel tank, just in case you want to do 120 or when you start shooting more, you would appreciate the ability to develop more than 1 film at a time. I started on plastic tanks, they are easier to load than stainless steel, however, for me, are harder to clean. I love my stainless steel tanks, but loading film does take a bit of learning.
I've been experimenting with B and W C-41 film. I bought 5 rolls each of Kodak and Ilford. I probably won't stay with it. I agree that the Ilford is a little easier to print. I'd recommend starting out with the basics, D-76, Dektol, single grade paper, etc. to get started. The darkroom process seems like some easy steps, just follow the cookbook, and it is, but after the simple, it's all nuance. That has to be developed (hee-hee) with practice and experimentation, and reading books, and talking to others. BTW, I prefer stainless reels and tanks, they're what I learned with. And, for short term storage and immediate use, I like the Mt. Dew green plastic bottles with the large opening.