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Thread: Beseler 45MX?

  1. #11

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    In todays market the price is too high. I have a nice one with a Beseler Dichro colorhead for $200. The colorhead has no control unit & I have not used it as a colorhead, just as a nice cold light head for B&W & it has done the job.

    If you look around you will most likely find something nearby for a decent price... being under $100 to the $300 range. New they are still around $2000, but those are usually sold to someone whose business has a CPA telling them to buy & dump every few years for tax reasons or a corporate structure that will only allow them to purchase new.

    Buy a used one that works. They are difficult to screw up though it can be done. The frustrating thing these days is that they are "worth" more but you can't get it. They are basically a dime a dozen on the used market & those who don't sell for a realistic price either find a fool or don't sell... and there aren't many fools buying enlargers these days.

    EBay is viable & worth the effort. If you wait a bit one will come up. Or, like my latest replacement(& the reason I am selling mine) I found a brand new one in the box for a price I couldn't turn down & 'take it out of the house for me as the goodwill guys don't want it'.

    If you wait a bit & look carefully you should find something nearby. If you look a bit & figure shipping cost you will beat what this guy has easily.

    Even at that, $500 is too high in todays market. Heck, for $500 I will sell mine, throw in neg holders from 35mm to 4x5 and deliver from Denver to California. They just aren't getting high prices these days.

  2. #12

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    Thanks, but I guess you didn't notice this thread was resurrected from page 3 and a few posts back you can see I already acquired one. Got everything I needed and then some for $390. Only dilemma is the lamp wont work on the color head (got standard head, cold head and dichro with it). I knew from the description that the color head had this problem, now I'm just tryin' figure out what the problem is and how to fix it.
    Imitation cameras come with big egos, real cameras do not include accessories.

  3. #13
    glbeas's Avatar
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    Davies mentioned there was a workaround mod that can be done by commanding the lamp directly from the INPUT to the microprocessor, instead of from the OUTPUT, The microprocessor still controls the display, but does not control the lamp anymore, so that when it screws up, at least you do not lose the print that you are currently working on.

    What this means I really can't say as I've never opened the head up to check out the board. If you find a techie willing to work on it this may be the way to go.
    Gary Beasley

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by glbeas
    Davies mentioned there was a workaround mod that can be done by commanding the lamp directly from the INPUT to the microprocessor, instead of from the OUTPUT, The microprocessor still controls the display, but does not control the lamp anymore, so that when it screws up, at least you do not lose the print that you are currently working on.

    What this means I really can't say as I've never opened the head up to check out the board. If you find a techie willing to work on it this may be the way to go.
    Email from Davies this afternoon:
    -----------------------------
    No, it isn't the transformer. I fear that it may be a
    part that is now obsolete The lamp voltage is controlled to 82v so as to
    buffer the lamp from variations in the line [ac] voltage. However, part of
    this control circuit uses an unusual type of opto isolator [more unusual
    now, since they don't make it anymore] which consists of an incandescent
    light source instead of an LED. I have been experimenting with repairing
    this device, peeling the aluminum can open, and replacing the llight bulb
    part with the closest that I can find to it, but have been only partially
    successful
    If the above is the problem, then probably the best
    course of action is to modify the circuit so that it puts out a voltage
    close to the line voltage, and put in a 120v lamp. This, in theory, would
    give you some variation in your prints due to changes in line voltage, but
    in practice you would probably be ok.
    Having said all of the above, it is of course possible
    that the obsolete component is not the problem, could be something else. But
    if you have a multimeter, and can take the end board out of the unit, then
    e mail me again and I will tell you how to test it.
    If you want info on this unit you need to call
    Beseler, ask for parts and then ask for Steve McFadden. I believe that he
    could send you a schematic, since Beseler no longer supports the 45.
    While you are at it...........ask him to send me one
    too, because mine is falling apart.............regards...........a
    --------------------------

    What I'm wondering now is -- if the rest of the circuit operates fine without the sensor mentioned by Davies, why not just add a separate stabilized 82v transformer just to run the lamp?

    I'm gonna test that, but I don't know the integrity of the rest of this head's circuit either so if it doesn't work for me it doesn't necessarily mean it wouldn't on another head.

    I have the unit apart again and am waiting for him to email the board test procedures and values.
    Imitation cameras come with big egos, real cameras do not include accessories.

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