The filter drawer for the DII holds two 6" filters. The hole is 5" in diameter. A cut down filter might slide to one side and admit a little white light from the side. Putting some heavy tape, ie: gaffers tape, on the side would build the filters back up to 6" on a side and center the filter over the hole.
The filters should be between the light source and the negative, not in front of the lens.
I understand the DII is similar to the DIII, which I can comment on. The DIIIVC model uses 6" filters, which I put in the condenser drawer also. Very simple and convenient.
Originally Posted by Deckled Edge
...The filters should be between the light source and the negative, not in front of the lens.
Hope I don't ambush the thread to a different direction for you Neal, but; I guess the spectrum of light wavelengths presented to the negative will be different if the filter is between the light source and neg than if it is under the lens. And presumably this will give different results on the print.
Problem is whenit comes to split grade printing. I found that having to open the condenser draw to change filters part way through the exposure will give shake on the print resulting in loss of sharpness (even using a stop-clock). So at the moment this has me a bit stumped. I've been hand holding filters under the lens for spit grade sprinting.
[size=1]ps. if you're yet to buy Neal, Cl#ss!c Enlargers are very good but expensive. There are bargains around if you have the patience . Mine I found in mint condition at the back of a retail shop for NZ$600 (US$400).[/size]
I put my 6" Kodak polycontrast filters in the top condenser area. If I'm using the 35mm lens then they sit on the condensor. If I'm using the 150mm lens where the condensor needs to be removed entirely, they simply span the hole left over! Hopefully I'm not doing it wrong, but it seems to work for me (and for the guy I bought it from).
Glenn, Thanks, that picture is very helpful. I think that I could whip up a tray out of mount board or foamcore that would adapt the 5.5" filters to fit. Do you think that there would be a heat problem?
John, I have done split printing with my 23C and, though I worry about blurring my print every single time. With care, I haven't run into a problem yet. I close the door just lightly enough keep the light in and pretend that the thing will explode if it moves a micron.
Classic is about a half hour across the Hudson River for me, but $1200 USD for an old D2???!! I assume that is a rare gold and snakeskin model that was presented to the King of Prussia at his coronation in boxed "collector" condition. I was thinking more in terms of trying to pick one up off of Ebay for about a tenth of that.
That is called grain. It is supposed to be there.
....I think that I could whip up a tray out of mount board or foamcore that would adapt the 5.5" filters to fit. Do you think that there would be a heat problem?
...but $1200 USD for an old D2???!!
If you have the DII with the color head, the drawer slides into place in it's own slot just under the bulb. Heat would be a factor only in VERY long exposures--don't use f32. The drawer is about 3/8" deep, so there's plenty of room left over for a sheet of black cardboard to hold your cut-down filters. I paid $450 for my DII with color head--no great bargain, but I am thankful every time I use it. It is a big improvement over the old DII with the variable condenser shelves which I got for $100 15 years ago. On that one I merely peeked inside the condenser cabinet and placed the filters on whatever shelf I wasn't using. I never considered movement, never slammed the door, and never saw blurring.