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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by dances_w_clouds View Post
    1. How about that hockey game.....?
    hockey would be better if they had cheerleaders

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick A View Post
    Shooting Tri-X at 200 would mean "pulling" development, less time in developer not more. Did you possibly mean Plus-X at 200? That would require pushing, and more developing time.

    New Info: Tri-X shot iso 200--10.5min @20c, then using time/temp chart shows less than 5 min development time @21c. This is not recommended as any film developed less than 5 minutes could result in uneven development. (source:MDC)
    i've read that others rated their tri-x at 200 for better results
    do you pull the film during developing, or develop it as if you rated it 400
    ie. are you intentionally overexposing 1 stop because you find that yields better results with tri-x

  3. #13
    Rick A's Avatar
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    "Pull development" just means shortening the time in developer before dumping chem and pouring in the stop bath. The MDC shows two different times for Tri-X in D-76 1+1, 9.5 min for 35mm and 10.5 for 120 film. It also shows 9.75 min for iso 400. I would be inclined to develope as if it were shot at 400 speed. You have to remember that the MDC times are starting points, and you must experiment to find the time that works for you.
    Rick A
    Argentum aevum
    BTW: the big kid in my avatar is my hero, my son, who proudly serves us in the Navy. "SALUTE"

  4. #14
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chij View Post
    i've read that others rated their tri-x at 200 for better results do you pull the film during developing, or develop it as if you rated it 400
    ie. are you intentionally overexposing 1 stop because you find that yields better results with tri-x
    It is fun and worthwhile to experiment with rating films at something different that the box speed to see what they do.

    BUT...

    The more I learn about the craft of photography and the better I get at each task the more I like using the box rating.

    The results others get are nearly irrelevant because things as simple as their thermometer reading being differently than yours or their metering technique giving different readings than yours (both of which are the norm BTW) or any number of other variables can skew the result.

    Shooting any film at half box speed will get you more shadow detail than if you shot it at box speed.

    Which is more important to you though, an extra stop of detail or a less blur with a faster shutter speed?

    The answer to that question can vary for every shot.

    With regard to changing development because of a change in exposure:

    That depends on how the SBR of the scene matches the paper your printing on.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

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